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Around India in 80 Trains

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In 1991, Monisha's family uprooted from Sheffield to Madras in the hope of making India their home. Two years later, fed up with soap-eating rats, stolen human hearts and the creepy colonel across the road, they returned to England with a bitter taste in their mouths.

Twenty years later, Monisha came back. Taking a page out of Jules Verne's classic tale, Around the World in 80 Days, she embarked on a 40,000km adventure around India in 80 trains. Travelling a distance equivalent to the circumference of the Earth, she lifted the veil on a country that had become a stranger to her.

As one of the largest civilian employers in the world, featuring luxury trains, toy trains, Mumbai's infamous commuter trains and even a hospital on wheels, Indian Railways had more than a few stories to tell. On the way, Monisha met a colourful cast of characters with epic stories of their own. But with a self-confessed militant atheist as her photographer, Monisha's personal journey around a country built on religion was not quite what she bargained for...

Around India in 80 Trains is a story of adventure and drama infused with sparkling wit and humour.

243 pages, Paperback

First published November 8, 2011

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About the author

Monisha Rajesh

7 books152 followers
Monisha Rajesh was born in King’s Lynn in Norfolk and grew up all over England. She read French at the University of Leeds and taught English at a high school in Cannes before studying postgraduate journalism at City University London. She has written for the London Evening Standard, The Guardian, TIME magazine and The New York Times.

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 343 reviews
Profile Image for Tamara.
263 reviews77 followers
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March 22, 2018
An unimposing edifice of pure blandness. I don't think i've ever heard India described as 'bland' before, so here, i've done it. You're welcome, India.

How one can take that many trains in India and evince so little interest in Indian trains is utterly beyond me. There is an absolutely microscopic amount of background research, much less any kind of attempt at synthesis on the subject of the staggeringly glorious achievement of human civilization that is the Indian rail network. Instead there's a poorly written laundry list of a blog, featuring places rendered dull and people rendered boring, with the occasional repetitive mention that a train was duly caught. Sometimes there's a description of the upholstery. Sometimes a train is late, or missed, adding a touch of thoroughly quotidian excitement.

It doesn't help that the writer seems to have spent most of her odyssey in a rather miserable fug of self pity (at least, that's what made it onto the page.) There might be something to that - many adventures, after all, are ill-conceived - but if one cannot turn one's suffering into some revelation, pathos or at the very least a modicum of narrative interest, perhaps one should not write a book about it.

I quit when I hit the sentence that constitutes the most fundamentally meaninglessly uninsghtfully uninteresting piece of travel writing I've ever read in my entire life. Thus far, said I, and no more. The trains of India deserve better.

For the record, the sentence is "things in India always happen when you least expect them to."

What does that sphinxian utterance mean? What does that mean when you're waiting for a train?!?!?!

Edited to add, March 2018:

Having since reading this book and written this review done a number of things which I would not have expected at the time, but which its - now, rereading it - strident tone might foretell somewhat, to wit:

a. spent a little time in India, including a small amount of it on trains,
b. completed an MA in transportation planning, including research on the organization and ethnography of public transportation in the global south.

I,
a. find this terrible train travel book ever more baffling in its boringness,
b. can only assume I have it to blame for my PhD proposal.

That's how they get you, innocent train-afficionado kids.
2 reviews
August 30, 2013
Even though the author herself seems to deride the terms, this book reads like poverty tourism/poverty porn. The first half of the book is simply filled with negative descriptions of everything. Things are too filthy, too smelly, too corrupt, too uncivilised, etc. etc. All the ordinary Indian passengers she meets are physically or culturally demeaned: they are either always snoring, spitting, gargling, sniggering, looking at her wrongly, touching her, squeezing her bottom, etc. And of course, they all have bad accents which are italicised for our benefit. The exceptions to this are the descendants of kings who are steeped in English culture and enamoured ambassadors of India who allow her to declare that she's English and not Indian.

On the other hand, the Brits and Aussies she runs into are all fun-loving, flawless, cardboard cut-outs with charming lilts and idiosyncrasies who prance and dance across the country. The exception to this is her travelling companion nicknamed Passepartout (apparently more Norwegian than British) who is constantly scoffed at for his anti-theistic views. He is of course apparently also smitten with li'l Miss Perfect, Rajesh.

This book was a bit of a revelation to me. I lost interest very early in which trains she was taking or the places she was visiting as Rajesh tends to gloss over such details in her "travelogue". As a reader, I really couldn't believe that something so crass could actually find a publisher and kept plodding on expecting a twist. The book seemed to be structured as if the narrator was an anti-heroine who would either get her just deserts or reform at some point. While it might have been unintentional, this did arrive about midway through:





Ah! But this scene provided the sort of catharsis I've seldom never felt while reading a travel tale. I cheered Passepartout on with all my mental might. While we are only treated to her side of the argument, I suspect that this was richly deserved. Frankly, as a marketing gimmick, the publisher should have contracted Passepartout to release his own book recounting his version of the events. IMHO, it would have been far more interesting. Unlike Rajesh, he appeared to interact with the local populace far more and came across as something of a gentle giant.

After the above incident, Rajesh spends most of her time bitching about Passepartout and whining and crying through India. During the second half of the book, she gets spiritual attending Vipasana courses where she, needless to say, appears to be the only one to actually complete the course while the rest of the participants were indisciplined idiots playing hooky. I was right in expecting her to "reform" at some point as she apparently comes to terms with all her negativity through meditation and acceptance. This, however, does not really come through in the tone of her later chapters.

As for the writing itself, some of Rajesh's metaphors are funny although she tends to be repetitious and goes overboard with them. The flow of the tale is creditably smooth. But the negativity that permeates through every chapter is unsettling and unwelcome. Even the chapter on the Lifeline Express which was interesting was again tinged with negativity, hints at some kind of romantic interlude with a doctor (not Indian, of course) along with further scoffing at poor Passepartout. The book would make for good reading for those who want to learn how not to write a travel book. It could also be used in conjunction with travel advisories against travelling to India or by travel agents who make a living out of poverty tourism.

In many ways, this review reads just like the book: negatives after negatives with a couple of backhanded compliments thrown in. I give it 1 star as I completed the book and another because of the Passepartout moment.
Profile Image for Lit Bug.
160 reviews471 followers
October 8, 2013
It is a refreshing account of a British woman of Indian origin in her late twenties seeking out the country she felt remotely belonged to, in a span of four months through 80 trains, covering a large part of India with her travel buddy who she has chosen to refer to as only Passepartout, the French word for ‘all-purpose’. From November to the end of her eventful journey, she discovers the Indian way of life through travels in mostly second and third class, and sometimes in luxurious trains as well.

The tone of the account is for the most parts charming, peppered with bits of history thrown in by her fellow travelers, punctuated by her own moods ranging from bliss and excitement to moments of frustration and agony. Despite not possessing the depth that has the power to turn it into a mesmerizing travelogue, in itself, as a memoir, it is interesting. However, the growing sardonic tone towards the latter half of her writing, mostly on account of her growing discomfort with Passepartout, renders the memoir bitter and unpleasant to read – not that travelogues/memoirs have to be necessarily gleeful and positive, but she lacks the art of writing insightfully from her experiences. Her disillusioning experiences, then, cease to seem like unfortunate events and descend into whining and ceaseless burnouts.

This account holds interest mainly for the reason that there is a lack of similar travelogues better than this. Its lone status lends it an air of excitement. However, for those having read far better travel pieces, there is a significant lack of many essential elements that raise a personal travel memoir into an appealing journey across an unknown land. For instance, the humor in the book depends mainly on her own mood swings, rather than on a calm reflection of events that have passed more than a year before the book was out. The bitterness stings heavily, since it is more of a personal spat with a fellow traveler than any real substantial reason – the minor disagreement was blown out of proportion to vent her own distaste for a differing opinion.

Passepartout has been given a one-dimensional role in the whole book – that of an intolerant brute victimizing the author and ruining her journey. It is more of an injustice to include only one dimension of a person you travel with for almost three-fourths of the journey and yet have barely anything good to say about. He comes into the picture only when she has an unhappy incident with him to describe, or has been asked for forgiveness. Rest of the time, he is almost invisible.

Her travels are more of visiting places and observation of needless details, like Monaco wrappers or feeding a puppy Marie Lite biscuits than building a vivid picture of the places. Customs and traditions are described unevenly (heavily in some places, negligibly in others) – which leaves a reader dissatisfied. The lack of detail – in appearance of people, differences between places, people and local food, amongst others in contrast with immense detailing of her own moods and spats leaves much to be desired.

Despite its obvious flaws, it is not that bad, just an okay read, considering the novelty of the idea – her journey must have been incredible, but it does not come out effectively in the book. And yet, it is recommended for people who prefer light travel writing bereft of heavy observations on history, politics, economics and introspection. It is more a fun read, and would have been even more charming and truly engaging if she had managed to temper the incisive sarcasm and infectious bad-temper keeping in mind the nature of the book.

In any case, it is far more entertaining and warm than Theroux's The Great Railway Bazaar, as he travels through India (and many more countries) on trains, like Miss Monisha.
Profile Image for dely.
449 reviews268 followers
February 21, 2017
There are books that start very well and have a disappointing end, and books that are disappointing from the first pages and turn out a bit better towards the end. Around India in 80 trains belongs to the second group: I didn't liked it that much from the very beginning but in the second part there are some interesting parts. Sadly it wasn't enough to give this book a higher rating because I didn't like it for many reasons:
- there aren't detailed descriptions of anything but only hints. The descriptions of the people and places are too short and the author ends stories in a too abrupt way or she goes from one event to another without explaining how it happened. Characters come and disappear but she talks about them as if she knows them so I couldn't understand where in the story they already had been mentioned. I had to read some pages twice because I thought I had missed something, only to find out that it wasn't my fault.
- the author seems selfish, egocentric and full of herself. Every event is good to talk about herself. For example, her travel companion is nicknamed Passepartout and when she talks about him it's only to show how clever and open minded she is. He is always in the background or non existent and she uses him only to talk about herself. I also find it very disrespectful to don't call him by his name seen that it's also thanks to him that she could start this journey. As a woman she was scared to travel by her own and so she needed a male companion to feel save. Well, Passepartout is a Norwegian photographer, Harald Haugan.
- the author is too exaggerated in her descriptions of India's life. I'm glad I've read this book as a group-read in the group "Indian Readers" where members are Indians living in India and they helped me a lot to understand what was true about the descriptions and what was exaggerated. Well, a lot of things are exaggerated and sadly in a negative way. Sometimes the author also adds wrong informations as if she hasn't deepened a topic. I had also the feeling that she feels superior to resident Indians because she is born and raised in England.
- the writing. There was also some humour but I missed it because English is not my native language though I've read The Tale of Hodja Nasreddin: Disturber of the Peace and Waiting for Gertrude: A Graveyard Gothic and was able to catch the humour so perhaps it isn't only my fault if I wasn't able to laugh.


There were just a couple of interesting chapters: the one about the The Lifeline Express, the one about the Osho Ashram (till now I've heard only bad things about it and the author confirmed them) and the Vipassana meditation. Here and there were some interesting things but not enough to close an eye on the bad parts of the books.

I add also the link to Rajesh's blog (thanks Smitha!) because there are a lot of photos of her journey: http://www.80trains.com/blogs/monisha...

It isn't a book to throw away but it could have been much better. Perhaps people who have been in India or Indians will enjoy it much more because they know what is true and which parts are exaggerated.
Profile Image for Aniruddh Sudharshan.
106 reviews19 followers
October 23, 2015
OK first things first.
I am awesomatic of the aaromale, because finished book on the day I started.
Prior Warning
This is NOT a book on Trains, yes it involves trains.
This is NOT a book on travel, yes it involves travel.
Is basically a book by author trying to reconnect herself to India through trains.
Hi, OK I know I lost you there.
Book picks up pace in the last round of chapters when it actually makes sense and we are allowed to get what the author wants to say about India. Rest is like opinions which go "Indians be like....etc" which I'm tired of anyways.
I am a very kind fellow.
So giving two stars for.
1. Indiana Jones reference
2. Books starts in Chennai and finishes there.
That's all.
OK bye.
382 reviews185 followers
July 16, 2013
This book surprised me.

I thought it would be another of those books written by Indians who had settled abroad about oh-how-lovely-the-people-are, and oh-how dirty-everything-is, plus some culture orgasms and photographs thrown in.

It is nothing of the sort.

It is a lovely book, written with a keen eye for the romantic and off-key, and a quite charming sense of humor. The author will have you chuckling in quite a few places.

Her tone was sometimes a bit disagreeable, but that's alright. Different people see the word in different ways and that's totally fine.

It is a travel book, of course, but it also is an ode to the Indian Railways. The author travels through the country with all of India - the peasant, the daily wage labourer, the student, the housewife, the businessman, the tourist and paints to us a beautiful picture of my country's greatest leveller.

I'm so jealous she was able to do this. I really am.

The author writes with a sparkling honesty, a refreshing departure from contemporary travel writing. As she travels with us, she bares her deepest fears, and lets on more about her than she needs to. She chooses to do so, though, which gives the book a soul. It isn't just a description of things she sees, we also know how she feels, and that is what makes this book quite remarkable.

I loved it, it was 250+ pages of pure pleasure.

Take this ride on India's trains. You won't regret it.
Profile Image for Ritika Gupta.
66 reviews24 followers
November 18, 2013
The book is a good read, especially if you like travelling by trains. But it is not some book, that you will think about once you are done. There are no moments in the book that you would want to experience for yourself. This book could have been written in a much better way. The writing style of the author becomes predictable and it is only the journeys that keep you hooked. Memoirs should be narrated in a way, that the reader knows it was a memorable trip for you and writing a book on the same was secondary.

It seemed the exact opposite in this case. You could see the travelling was done primarily to write the book which somehow took away the joy that one would have felt while reading such a book. It seemed a little artificial.

Also, trips should be taken with like-minded people
and the relationship between Monisha and her fellow traveler and photographer, Passepartout, was unsettling from the start. The way it deteriorates in the second half of the book leaves you with an unpleasant taste.

Would have rated 2 stars if not for the love of train travelling. The book did increase my knowledge about Indian Railways. The book can be read only because of lack of another book on similar lines.

Having said all this, It is not that I did not like the book, it's just that I expected a lot more and hence was slightly disappointed.
Profile Image for Versha.
282 reviews278 followers
September 18, 2014
This is my first travelogue and also officially my first un-finished book too! This was a free kindle copy i downloaded from Amazon and was actually quite excited to read it as well, but it turned out wrong way up. Usually I try not to leave any book half finished or unread for long time but seriously this authors narration was bit too cliché to read. Somehow her narration sounded frustrating and whiny at the same time, oh..and also the same old 'NRIs-ranting-on-India-and-Indians-sarcastically' really, I have seen and heard enough of all that to continue. Thus, I left it mid way…may be to continue later or may be not.
Profile Image for Sanket Patil.
37 reviews5 followers
January 11, 2014
What a lovely idea for a book! I started reading it with great enthusiasm, but I must say I soon started feeling underwhelmed. What a great opportunity that has been underutilized. The trains, the places one visits, the people, all the possibilities -- instead in the bulk of the book the author is busy trying to be clever or dishing our truisms about India. There are some well-written and interesting parts, but overall it's just passable.
Profile Image for Ahtims.
1,539 reviews125 followers
April 11, 2015
I am so glad that I came upon this book. It was suggested to me by some IR friend and I ordered it via flipkart on May 28, the day on which flipkart gave 50% discount to many best sellers(this fact too, known via an IR thread). I only wish I had ordered more books. This is basically non-fictional travellogue of India, wherein Monisha, a British Indian travels the length and breadth of India in 80 trains. It was funny, sarcastic, amazing and true to the core. Initially I felt she was belittling India, but then I realized its because of love for India, rather otherwise- the way we tirade against our near and dear ones hoping that they will change for the better. I liked Passeportout (hope the spellling is correct) and googled his true name and went through his photography website. And after reading another IR friend's review about this book, came to know that Monisha has a blog chocful of pictures from this journey, and went through her blog in between. I would recommend this book to all who love India and want to know more about India and its ways.
Profile Image for Biju Muttathukatil.
12 reviews10 followers
April 8, 2015
A great concept , but poorly executed , at least in prose. She had taken a great effort to go through this ordeal/experience . However, the book was a major let down. Maybe I had high expectations.
Or maybe the travelogue was more of website based , where people tend to scan the webpage for photographs and some information. But as a book, it fails to satisfy, both as source of information or story.
Profile Image for Aiswarya Haridas.
23 reviews62 followers
December 4, 2016
Liked the book for the cover design and the theme. Apart from that 'Around india in 80 trains' is a mere disappointment. Definitely the Indian railways and people are " much much" better than how the author has tried to depicit.
Profile Image for Anoop Pai B.
90 reviews50 followers
April 5, 2013
I grabbed this book as soon as I saw it on display at a book store. I travel by train every weekend back home from Karwar and so Railways have a special place in my life.And so I decided to embark on a journey with Monisha Rajesh and her passportout!
The first half of the journey was not that exciting. The author constantly tries to be witty bombarding with missiles of comparative descriptions rather than putting it in a better way. While there were some which was funny, most of them gave me facepalms. And I struggled to stay with her on the journey.
The second half was a stark contrast. The narration came from the bottom of the heart and were described more beautifully and in a simple way. This was the part that I enjoyed a lot and it made me want to go on a long distance train travel (I might do one shortly).
All in all it was not a blockbuster book. But it was not a bad one either. 2.5 stars for this one!
And one good thing that i learnt from this book was the full form of TTE (train ticket examiner) :P
(i checked out her blog and the pics from the journey. i must say, one should read the book while looking at the pics. It gives a better idea about her journey.)
And so i will give this one 3 Stars!!
Profile Image for Karima.
90 reviews1 follower
January 5, 2013
I felt like I had to slog through it. Sounded like it would be interesting having been to India and loving long train rides but it just was not that interesting to read. I like when I am reading to hit that point where I can't wait to get back to my book, that never came. It was more of looking at my Kindle seeing I was 60, 70, 80% in and thinking I might as well finish it.
Profile Image for Paul.
2,172 reviews
March 15, 2019
Monisha Rajesh's family had moved over from India a while ago, but in 1991 they decided that they wanted to move back. Heading to Madras, they lasted two years before concluding they preferred the cold climate of the UK over rats and severed body parts. Twenty years later, she has the urge to return once again to India, but how to see it. An idea forms based on Jules Verne's classic Around the world in 80 Days and she starts researching the railways of India hoping to find 80 separate train journey's that would take her around the country and help her to re-discover it. But first, she needed a companion for her adventure. Fortunately, she knew a photographer who had some spare time and he agreed to come with her.

Her journey would take her across India from top to bottom, and right into the far reaches of the country. She passes through well-known cities like Mumbai and Delhi to places that are only known to the locals. Each journey was different and a challenge to all the senses from the sleekest sleeper trains to the carriages where she shared space with the mass of humanity each on their own personal journey. Herr companion, Passepartout, though turned out to be a radical atheist who was continually challenged and assaulted by the cacophony of sights and sounds in this deeply devout country.

A romantic evening haze hung over the treetops that sped past. I soon realised that this was a layer of filth on the window…

I thought that this was a really enjoyable account of a series of trip backwards and forwards around the subcontinent of India. Rajesh conveys the character of the country really well from the people that she meets on the trains as well as being able to draw on her dual cultural identity to understand the context of what she is seeing. Mixed with this is a blend of historical and personal anecdotes and written in a warm and conversational style. It is also a warning to choose your travelling companions wisely too…
Profile Image for Gayathiri Rajendran.
465 reviews12 followers
March 31, 2018
The title of this book seemed interesting enough to pick it up and frankly I wanted to read what the author had to tell about India and her extensive railway system.

To be frank,I was completely disappointed. The writing was elementary and there were too many jibes and pokes and the grammar was bearable at most. This book could have been excellent in the genre of travel literature but sadly it is a whiney bland narration of the author about her journey in India by 80 different trains. There is a lot of complaining throughout the book by the author about almost everything right from the trains till the people traveling with her.

It can be seen clearly that minimum or no research has been done with regards to this book. It’s mostly poverty that is depicted throughout the book and one who has never travelled to India or heard of India might think that is true. Her descriptions are bland and in my opinion India is anything but “bland”.

I find it hard to believe that the railways are that worse as depicted by her. I have travelled by trains frequently and I should say that the railways have definitely improved. The character Passepartout flits in and out of the narrative and it is hard to get a grip of his character. We never really find out what he is like throughout the book. There is a fight between the author and him in the middle of the book and she goes off on her own.

One thing that irked me was the way she described the Indians traveling with her in the trains and the foreigners who were traveling with her in the luxury trains. Indians were depicted to be indisciplined,loud and nosy whereas the foreigners who travelled in the luxury trains were portrayed to be perfect caricatures of tourists. I find it surprising that almost all the Indians she met on the trains were selfish,unhelpful and ungracious except for a couple of people including an ambassador and a few others.

The way she described hunting for hotels to stay was a bit unbelievable. At last the book ends in the cliched way of finding spirituality in India where the author prides upon herself to complete the Vipasana course depicting the others in the course like complete idiots. I was happy to put down this book at the end. Somehow I raced to complete this book. I wish she had elaborated more on the places she saw,local cuisine,interaction with locals,places of visit instead of constantly complaining about how poverty stricken people were and constant jibes at the sizes of Indians aboard the trains.

This book was such a waste of my time and I was misled by the title. The only saving grace is the excellent cover design.One star for the cover design.
Profile Image for Neha D'souza.
227 reviews41 followers
June 19, 2021
I LOVED THIS BOOK.

I know, it’s not a popular opinion and I get it. To people who’ve grown up in india, this book may comes across as exaggerated. Having grown up abroad myself, I moved to India at age 6. I was heavily accented with a weak immune system and no knowledge of Bollywood. I also had the tendency to politely ask for things and I soon learnt that to survive here, you gotta make a grab for what you want - whether a seat on a bus, a packet of wafers or the only functional swing in a park. As someone who was treated differently, I completely related to this book.
Monisha describes Mumbai Local train travel perfectly and having interned with the Impact India Foundation, her account of the Lifeline Express is also on point. Monisha Rajesh is an unapologetic wry writer and I understand that most people love romanticism. This book is far from that. Neither is it a travelogue delving into the rich history of the places she visits. It’s an honest firsthand account of her experience travelling around India.
Profile Image for Pramod Nair.
233 reviews199 followers
May 18, 2015
When i started reading this title - especially for the first 100 pages or so - the irritation that was felt for the author's radar like eye for everything negative and her constant complaining made me so disappointed that i thought i will abandon the prospect of completing the book. Since the author had the unique opportunity to write about so unique a travel venture, the magnitude of disappointment was large because for the first few chapters there was nothing positive or charming. But i am really happy to say as an avid lover of travelogues that after those initial few chapters the author has done a commendable job of making the later part of the book interesting as well as connecting nicely with the reader. As the constant complaining stops the book starts to have its charming moments.

Hats off to the author for undertaking such an adventurous journey.
Profile Image for Sunil Cavale.
6 reviews23 followers
August 23, 2016
Monisha Rajesh's journey on 80 Indian trains ranging from Sleeper Class coaches to Luxury Trains, a Hospital on Wheels to Mumbai's sub-urban lifeline locomotives, is well documented here. Throughout the book, the author throws in witty Western comparisons to Indian normalcy - good enough to amuse an Indian reader, while not making it look offensive. The book starts off on an exciting note but becomes ridiculously dull in the middle. The latter third of the book kept me engaged. Much like the trains, the writing is fast paced - a bit too fast for my comfort, I must say. While elaboration is not very apt in a travelogue spanning 240 pages, when the travel itself spanned 40,000 plus kilometers, the downfall of the book lies just there. Neither the train journeys or the places the author visits are satisfactorily decorated, which is a tad saddening.

The most trivial of practices, which us Indians take for granted, are scanned effectively in an amusive light. The bits of trivia sprinkled here and there add to the charm. It's a good read, but could have been much better.

Also, for a lover of trains, the book's cover is an absolute delight!

P.S - I don't know how the author missed out on travelling to Varanasi.
Profile Image for Swati Jain.
50 reviews3 followers
January 24, 2020
At first glance this book is funny and witty. It is a journey of a girl travelling across India taking 80 trains. To begin with I must say it is indeed a very brave attempt and she has actually done it beautifully, covering all corners of the country. The best thing is after finishing the book you get that good positive feeling that all the problems in life can be dealt with determination and faith. I like the book for lots of things - first the journey, secondly the detailed and in-depth look into India this book provides, thirdly her resolve to just keep moving ahead.

More at... https://booklookat.blogspot.com/2020/...
1 review1 follower
August 13, 2013
This book has been disappointing for me - I picked it up expecting to experience places and people from across India. The book somehow does not connect. None of the characters seem to stay on with you, as the author hurtles from place to place. A minor gripe I am sure - I would have so loved a map. But a toast, however, to the spirit of the journey.
1,327 reviews17 followers
July 17, 2013
I really wanted to like this book, but that was not the case. here is what I learned; Indian people can be quirky, pushy, friendly, rude.[return]Indian trains are crowded.[return]India is a big religious country.[return]The authors travel partner wanted to have sex with her and when that failed, he became an ass.[return]The author should stick to writing magazine stories, not a whole book.
Profile Image for Arush Ul islam.
81 reviews10 followers
December 23, 2017
Hats off to Monisha Rajesh!

A complete guide to railways of India. Very knowledgeable!

The way it is written is marvelous.

The plot as well as the concept is great.

No more words for this great novella.
24 reviews
August 4, 2015
Could have been so much better, after 4 months & 80 trains. Writer is actually too snobbish and self-absorbed to become really observant about India.
Profile Image for Simon Adams.
105 reviews1 follower
December 6, 2019
Very readable if you’re interested in railways, or Indian culture or both.
Profile Image for Preethi.
883 reviews129 followers
June 4, 2017
I finished this book when I was travelling in India, but by flights. And the book made me feel nostalgic about train rides... Though I haven't done a lot of them growing up.

I was skeptical and scared this might be another of those books written by an Indian from another country mocking all things Indian, showcasing the sorry state in this country, but was super glad about the tone in this book. It is very as a matter of fact, without judgement, talking about the author's experiences with the world's largest employer. All things Indian, our quirks included are touched upon, and mentioned in a narrative that probably is meant to be factual, and this, I appreciated.

I also liked how the book is about train travel only and how the author didn't delve into the details and review of the places she visited, except the basic introduction.

The writing, given the small print might feel drone-ish at first, but if you persist, you'll appreciate the style of writing especially since the literature is really good.

Read this book for a trip across our beautiful country in your mind, and for the yearning of travel for your soul
Profile Image for Emily Moon.
93 reviews
October 17, 2022
An amazing journey but it just seemed to me to be focused on the wrong aspects of travelling. I wanted to learn a lot more about the places she was visiting and the people she was meeting but the focus was more on the challenges. This is understandable but not exactly escapism!
Profile Image for Kartik Singhal.
68 reviews72 followers
May 20, 2015
Got my hands on this book about two years ago when Amazon.in was launched and they were giving away some free Kindle books. Started reading it only when the Goodreads Indian Readers group picked this book as their April 2015 read.

## Review
This was the first time I read a travelogue and cannot say if I like the genre. But something about trains and finding more about my country did intrigue me enough that I decided to give this book a shot.

The author narrates how she ends up deciding to take this adventure while in London and all the ups and downs during the extensive train journeys in India. I could relate to some of the trains having travelled on those myself, but they are mostly limited to trains running on the west coast of the country and longer routes towards South India from Delhi. Learning about special trains like Indian Maharaja-Deccan Odyssey, the routes along North-East India and the 4 extreme tips of Indian Railways -- Kanyakumari, Dwarka (Varvala?), Udhampur and Ledo -- were some of the good outcomes.

Along with the train rides, the author shares personal experiences related to her family, general observations about coming back to India, meeting all sorts of people during the adventure, fights with her companion over his 'militant atheist' religious viewpoint and some about discovering herself through Vipassana meditation.

Overall a light read and enjoyable read. 3 stars.

## Quotes

- The author treats the trains as males, which distracted me couple of times as growing in a North-Indian Hindi-speaking household, a train has always been a railgaadi (and hence a female) to me:

His predecessor, the Palace on Wheels, still rolled his old bones up and down Rajasthan’s tracks, but had succumbed to age.


During the day he stood quietly in local stations, being fed and watered by his engineers until ready to leave again.


- My first (really) long train journey was on Kerala Express with my father. This was the first time we had come to South India and spent over 60% of our time traveling in trains and buses visiting all sorts of religious places like Tirupati, Madurai and Rameswaram. I ended up recalling that week long tour while relating to the author's experience.

we snaked around the families holding hands through the bars and arrived at the door to A2 as train number nine, the Kerala Express to Kottayam creaked and began to move again.


- Some general observations by the author about India.

Two people had been pushed down the waiting list because of our whims and fancies and I felt terrible—but only for a moment. This was India and this was how India worked.


Each question establishes where the other person sits on the social spectrum: surnames give away caste and social standing; jobs indicate earnings and therefore power, as does revealing where you live. Once they have all the answers, they can assign people to categories and gauge how useful the acquaintance will be in the future.


- And a particularly touching incidence from the author's Golden Temple visit.

He raised a palm and reached down to behind the bench separating us, then stood up holding a metal jug and bowl. He began to pour rajma into the bowl and it splattered over the sides as he produced a foil packet and began to unroll a pair of rotis. It was his own lunch. ‘Come.’ The gentleman gestured for me to climb over the bench and I shook my head. ‘Oh, no, thank you, that’s your lunch.’ Ignoring me, he began to clear a patch of bags from the floor then laid down a sheet of newspaper. He put down the food and waved me over. I stepped over the bench and took off my bag as he turned the table fan towards me. ‘You must eat,’ he said, sending a colleague down to bring up some water. I bit into a roti and started to cry.

Profile Image for Bigsna.
355 reviews8 followers
June 28, 2013
3.5 Stars actually.
I had mixed feelings about this book. Loved it in the beginning, questioned it in the middle and finally liked and accepted it in the end.
I assumed the book would become a guide for anyone who wanted to see key places in India and use only the railway network to get there. So I was hungrily looking for details of places that the author visited. However, I realised that the author's intent was actually to travel to the 4 extremes of the Indian railway network and figure out routes accordingly - covering as many diverse trains as possible. So it wasn't the destination but the kind of train that took her there that mattered. Like on reaching Udhampur, the last station of the line on the northernmost extreme, she never leaves the station premises - only gets off the train, picks a bunch of grass from the tracks as souvenir and takes the next train back.....
Hence, almost all her stories and experiences take place on the train and there is not much about the places she visits.
I guess that was the point of the trip too :-)

I could relate to her experiences on the train a lot - I think most of us will. Barring the communication bit, which I think is a very "touristy" thing to do - I'm not sure how many people actually get chatty with strangers on a train journey when they are traveling alone. I know I don't. Also, maybe it doesn't hold the kind of "novelty" for us as it does for those who visit our country and are very eager to get in touch with what they call the "real India".

What I found odd though was how unplanned she kept her trip. While it allowed her to be as flexible as possible - it also resulted in losing time, missing trains, getting kicked out for having no tickets and adding to the already mounting unpleasantness that she was having with the friend she brought along. Which was the other odd thing - they couldn't see eye to eye for most of the trip and had some nasty arguments that lead to bad moods and occasional abandoning.

But, there were some very interesting things described in the book - the history of a particular train, what the numbers on trains meant, special trains that I hadn't even heard of. I know which ones I am waiting to try:
The Indian Maharaja - just for the experience
The Mandovi Express - for lovely sights of the Konkan coast and chicken spring rolls
The Lifeline Express - just to witness the initiative that is reaching people who otherwise do not have medical alternatives - I did not know, such a train existed in India.

Overall, I think anyone who has the chance to take 4 months out from their daily routines / lives / jobs to travel up and down a country - is pretty lucky. I would like to be able to do that too. Someday. Soon. And when I do, I know there will be enough to write a book too :-)

Oh and one last thing, I think I am totally going to do the 10 day Vipassana meditation someday. It intrigues me - the idea of being silent and uncommunicative (even through expression) for 10 days at a stretch and meditating for 11 hours a day. To see if it really does calm the mind - or if I can pull through it and attain that calm. :-)
Profile Image for Arun Divakar.
799 reviews401 followers
August 8, 2013
Travel could perhaps be labelled 'the most addictive activity' for me. But not the tried and worn down places and views for me, it always is a whiff of fresh air for me to be seeing life lived out at places that I haven't been to before. There have always been day dreams of travelling across Europe or the middle east but the most alluring place has always been India for me. On one particularly long wait at an airport, this book with such a curious title chanced upon me and I became friends with it.

The concept of the book is pretty fun to explore : An Indian born Brit - Monisha embarks on a trip across the country on 80 trains that covers the span from Kashmir to Kanyakumari (the northern and southernmost tips of India). Along with her is a 'militant-atheist' photographer who is called passepartout (I remember his real name being mentioned in the beginning but now that part is all foggy !). Their endurance and passion for life is what gives color to this whole travelogue. India's trains are notorious for their punctuality. A friend of mine once wondrously told me while on a visit to Germany that passengers of a train were exasperated when it was late by three minutes ! Trust me, I have known trains that have run three days late in India was what my friend remarked then. This would give you a real picture of how things would have been for our passengers. They however take things in the stride and have a load of fun across these trains. There aren't too many new things in the book for a travelogue. What it does bring forth is the element of fun that these folks get to have. The tone alternates between that of a dispassionate observer and an involved enthusiast and that gives the travelogue a human touch. In all, it is a fun filled package.

Coincidentally by the time I finished the last page of this book, I touched down on American soil ! :)
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