What do you think?
Rate this book
Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time
Goodreads Choice Award
Nominee for Best Travel & Outdoors (2011)What happens when an adventure travel expert-who's never actually done anything adventurous-tries to re-create the original expedition to Machu Picchu?
July 24, 1911, was a day for the history books. For on that rainy morning, the young Yale professor Hiram Bingham III climbed into the Andes Mountains of Peru and encountered an ancient city in the clouds: the now famous citadel of Machu Picchu. Nearly a century later, news reports have recast the hero explorer as a villain who smuggled out priceless artifacts and stole credit for finding one of the world's greatest archaeological sites.
Mark Adams has spent his career editing adventure and travel magazines, so his plan to investigate the allegations against Bingham by retracing the explorer's perilous path to Machu Picchu isn't completely far- fetched, even if it does require him to sleep in a tent for the first time. With a crusty, antisocial Australian survivalist and several Quechua-speaking, coca-chewing mule tenders as his guides, Adams takes readers through some of the most gorgeous and historic landscapes in Peru, from the ancient Inca capital of Cusco to the enigmatic ruins of Vitcos and Vilcabamba.
Along the way he finds a still-undiscovered country populated with brilliant and eccentric characters, as well as an answer to the question that has nagged scientists since Hiram Bingham's time: Just what was Machu Picchu?
July 24, 1911, was a day for the history books. For on that rainy morning, the young Yale professor Hiram Bingham III climbed into the Andes Mountains of Peru and encountered an ancient city in the clouds: the now famous citadel of Machu Picchu. Nearly a century later, news reports have recast the hero explorer as a villain who smuggled out priceless artifacts and stole credit for finding one of the world's greatest archaeological sites.
Mark Adams has spent his career editing adventure and travel magazines, so his plan to investigate the allegations against Bingham by retracing the explorer's perilous path to Machu Picchu isn't completely far- fetched, even if it does require him to sleep in a tent for the first time. With a crusty, antisocial Australian survivalist and several Quechua-speaking, coca-chewing mule tenders as his guides, Adams takes readers through some of the most gorgeous and historic landscapes in Peru, from the ancient Inca capital of Cusco to the enigmatic ruins of Vitcos and Vilcabamba.
Along the way he finds a still-undiscovered country populated with brilliant and eccentric characters, as well as an answer to the question that has nagged scientists since Hiram Bingham's time: Just what was Machu Picchu?
333 pages, Hardcover
First published June 30, 2011
About the author
Mark Adams
35 books70 followersMark Adams is the author of the acclaimed history Mr. America, which The Washington Post named a Best Book of 2009, and the New York Times bestsellers Turn Right at Machu Picchu, which Men's Journal selected as one of the Fifty Greatest Adventure Books of All Time, and Meet Me in Atlantis. His work appears in many national publications, including GQ, Rolling Stone, Outside and the New York Times. He lives near New York City with his family.
Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the GoodReads database with this name.
Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the GoodReads database with this name.
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 30 of 1,980 reviews
July 27, 2015
Why did it take 250 pages for Mark Adams to admit Machu Picchu was never lost?
The indigenous peoples of Peru knew of it the entire time.
Why did Mark Adams take so long to build up the beauty and importance of the Inca, only to never spend a sentence on the modern day Inca, those who descended from the original peoples by building lives in the jungle?
Why couldn't Adams censure Yale for keeping artifacts when they really, really shouldn't?
Why was he so fascinated with Bingham, explorer of 100 years ago, in the first place? The guy was a jerk.
This book left me with so many questions, but mostly if Mark Adams knew what privilege is and decided to ignore it, or was just blissfully ignorant.
I'd love to read a real book on the importance of Machu Picchu and of travelling through Peru, and I really hope to hike the Inca Trail someday.
This book wasn't great at history. It was, however, fairly good as a hiking guide and as a guide to taking native peoples for granted. Modern colonialism indeed. Adams should not return to Peru or writing about it until he takes an Anthropology course, preferably several, and human rights course dealing with the indigenous peoples of Peru and their sad legal state. I just don't understand how he could say he's visiting the country to really get to the spirit of the Inca, but then ignore the people who are right there with him. Did he even try to learn Quechua, at least part of it? Ignoring the language is like going to Barcelona having never heard of Catalan.
Anyway. I wouldn't really recommend it, and I'm REALLY glad I got a discount second hand copy rather than one new.
The indigenous peoples of Peru knew of it the entire time.
Why did Mark Adams take so long to build up the beauty and importance of the Inca, only to never spend a sentence on the modern day Inca, those who descended from the original peoples by building lives in the jungle?
Why couldn't Adams censure Yale for keeping artifacts when they really, really shouldn't?
Why was he so fascinated with Bingham, explorer of 100 years ago, in the first place? The guy was a jerk.
This book left me with so many questions, but mostly if Mark Adams knew what privilege is and decided to ignore it, or was just blissfully ignorant.
I'd love to read a real book on the importance of Machu Picchu and of travelling through Peru, and I really hope to hike the Inca Trail someday.
This book wasn't great at history. It was, however, fairly good as a hiking guide and as a guide to taking native peoples for granted. Modern colonialism indeed. Adams should not return to Peru or writing about it until he takes an Anthropology course, preferably several, and human rights course dealing with the indigenous peoples of Peru and their sad legal state. I just don't understand how he could say he's visiting the country to really get to the spirit of the Inca, but then ignore the people who are right there with him. Did he even try to learn Quechua, at least part of it? Ignoring the language is like going to Barcelona having never heard of Catalan.
Anyway. I wouldn't really recommend it, and I'm REALLY glad I got a discount second hand copy rather than one new.
February 6, 2020
Look.
If the most mediocre man in New York can get a job as an editor for a travel magazine even though the most travel he'd ever done was flying to see family and staying with them or in a nice hotel and that same non-outdoorsy man can then hike through Peru without dying (I really hope he gives the muleteers and the cook and the porters and everyone who kept him alive during that time super nice Christmas gifts every year) and then write a book about Incan culture despite not being an anthropologist or historian or anything other than some guy who has studied another white dude's trek, you and I can both do whatever it is we think we are not qualified to do.
Sass aside, this book is good but definitely not great. Adams came across as a bit too starstruck but also navel-gazey to me. It probably would have been more responsible to frame this story in the context of white men centering the entire world around themselves but how, if you step outside their sphere, you can see the world has been working just fine without them this whole time rather than lovingly following in the footsteps of the Great and Amazing Hiram Bingham III.
Lost cities aren't lost. There were three families living and working on Machu Picchu when Hiram Bingham showed up, something HB admits from the get-go. Also, giant American universities that refuse to return another country’s artifacts are always in the wrong. And, it pays to learn language basics for the country you’re visiting especially when people who live there are hauling your goods around for weeks in difficult terrain.
Adams does bring up the white explorer discovering pre-known areas problem and even admits that Bingham wasn’t the first white person to stumble upon the ruins of Machu Picchu. But that’s not what the overall book is about. It’s about the intrepid, and somewhat self-absorbed, 1911 explorer trying to make his mark in the annals of American history by beating that damned woman explorer who was also running around Peru, scaling mountains. It’s also about the author’s own journey to re-create the 1911 expedition and to grow as a human being by briefly living in nature instead of existing in the city. (That seems to have worked; I see there are two other "My Travels" books by this guy so at least he's getting out there and doing things instead of just editing articles by people who get out and do things) And it’s about the manliness of John Leivers, the Hiram Bingham of our age. And a little about other people who study pre-Columbian Incan culture.
I wasn’t that taken with Bingham or with Adams or even with Leivers. I was, however, enthralled by the descriptions of the areas between Cusco and Machu Picchu and I would have loved to spend more pages on the Inca Trail, hearing what Ephrian had to say. Maybe Adams could pave the way for Ephrian to write a book on this topic? That would be an admirable journey, indeed.
3.5 stars but not rounded up because that cover art looks like something from a 1980's Choose Your Own Adventure book.
If the most mediocre man in New York can get a job as an editor for a travel magazine even though the most travel he'd ever done was flying to see family and staying with them or in a nice hotel and that same non-outdoorsy man can then hike through Peru without dying (I really hope he gives the muleteers and the cook and the porters and everyone who kept him alive during that time super nice Christmas gifts every year) and then write a book about Incan culture despite not being an anthropologist or historian or anything other than some guy who has studied another white dude's trek, you and I can both do whatever it is we think we are not qualified to do.
Sass aside, this book is good but definitely not great. Adams came across as a bit too starstruck but also navel-gazey to me. It probably would have been more responsible to frame this story in the context of white men centering the entire world around themselves but how, if you step outside their sphere, you can see the world has been working just fine without them this whole time rather than lovingly following in the footsteps of the Great and Amazing Hiram Bingham III.
Lost cities aren't lost. There were three families living and working on Machu Picchu when Hiram Bingham showed up, something HB admits from the get-go. Also, giant American universities that refuse to return another country’s artifacts are always in the wrong. And, it pays to learn language basics for the country you’re visiting especially when people who live there are hauling your goods around for weeks in difficult terrain.
Adams does bring up the white explorer discovering pre-known areas problem and even admits that Bingham wasn’t the first white person to stumble upon the ruins of Machu Picchu. But that’s not what the overall book is about. It’s about the intrepid, and somewhat self-absorbed, 1911 explorer trying to make his mark in the annals of American history by beating that damned woman explorer who was also running around Peru, scaling mountains. It’s also about the author’s own journey to re-create the 1911 expedition and to grow as a human being by briefly living in nature instead of existing in the city. (That seems to have worked; I see there are two other "My Travels" books by this guy so at least he's getting out there and doing things instead of just editing articles by people who get out and do things) And it’s about the manliness of John Leivers, the Hiram Bingham of our age. And a little about other people who study pre-Columbian Incan culture.
I wasn’t that taken with Bingham or with Adams or even with Leivers. I was, however, enthralled by the descriptions of the areas between Cusco and Machu Picchu and I would have loved to spend more pages on the Inca Trail, hearing what Ephrian had to say. Maybe Adams could pave the way for Ephrian to write a book on this topic? That would be an admirable journey, indeed.
3.5 stars but not rounded up because that cover art looks like something from a 1980's Choose Your Own Adventure book.
April 22, 2013
I really enjoyed this book. And now I want to go to Machu Picchu.
You can definitely tell this was written by a journalist, but Mark Adams had fun writing this book.
As with many adventure travel stories, you can feel yourself going along for every step of the journey. Adam's writing makes you sympathise. You can feel every bead of sweat, every ache of sunburn, you can taste the coca and you know exactly how it feels to get blistered toes because you forgot the rule of mountaineering: Always wear two pairs of socks.
I could feel Adam's getting sucked further into his obsession with Hiram Bingham's story but I don't feel that he ended the story all that conclusively.
I like the Australian link in the story, which is personified in the presence of John Leivers, Machu Picchu expert extraordinaire.
The humour woven throughout the story, whether it be as a result of John Leivers anecdotes, Adams' own misfortunes or Justo the cook and Efraim the guides stories of cultural quirkiness and tourist idiocy; truly make this book enjoyable and inspiring to read.
The only bad things for me, was not having an in-text guide to the pronunciation of some Peruvian place names, it really slowed the pace of reading to constantly have to flick back and forth between the glossary and the story.
I would advise anyone who reads this not to overlook the footnotes as they contain some of the most valuable and humorous parts of this story, including the little tidbit that explains how the rapper Tupac Shakur got his name.
Read this book and I guarantee you'll be on the travel sites working out how much it's going to cost you to fly to Peru within minutes of beginning.
You can definitely tell this was written by a journalist, but Mark Adams had fun writing this book.
As with many adventure travel stories, you can feel yourself going along for every step of the journey. Adam's writing makes you sympathise. You can feel every bead of sweat, every ache of sunburn, you can taste the coca and you know exactly how it feels to get blistered toes because you forgot the rule of mountaineering: Always wear two pairs of socks.
I could feel Adam's getting sucked further into his obsession with Hiram Bingham's story but I don't feel that he ended the story all that conclusively.
I like the Australian link in the story, which is personified in the presence of John Leivers, Machu Picchu expert extraordinaire.
The humour woven throughout the story, whether it be as a result of John Leivers anecdotes, Adams' own misfortunes or Justo the cook and Efraim the guides stories of cultural quirkiness and tourist idiocy; truly make this book enjoyable and inspiring to read.
The only bad things for me, was not having an in-text guide to the pronunciation of some Peruvian place names, it really slowed the pace of reading to constantly have to flick back and forth between the glossary and the story.
I would advise anyone who reads this not to overlook the footnotes as they contain some of the most valuable and humorous parts of this story, including the little tidbit that explains how the rapper Tupac Shakur got his name.
Read this book and I guarantee you'll be on the travel sites working out how much it's going to cost you to fly to Peru within minutes of beginning.
June 13, 2013
I read this book for a book club I belong to that is currently following a travel theme. The book follows Mark Adams as he retraces the steps of Bingham, the explorer/adventurer/professor who “discovered” Machu Picchu, on the 100 year anniversary of the discovery. This should have been a great travel adventure but there were some issues with the book. Mark Adams tells his present day story interspersed with Hiram Bingham’s original tale and then with tales from Pissaro and the Conquistadors. The switching back and forth is done erratically and is often disruptive. I can’t tell whether the author did this deliberately to make a statement about how the journeys were interchangeable even after the passage or time or if it was just ….erratic.
Another issue is that the author is not the most descriptive of writers, when I am reading a travel book about some place I will probably never see, I would like the author to “paint pictures with his words” so that I can vicariously “see” his views and experience the trip. Some of the writing is very flat and leaves you with a let down feel,… okay we got to Machu Picchu, now we’re going someplace else….what?
The main positive of the book is John Leivers, Mark Adam’s Australian born guide. He seemed like a fascinating person and I would probably have loved a story about him. There is also information about the controversies surrounding Machu Picchu and antiquities in general that was all very interesting. It seems to me that the book had an identity crisis. It tries to be a little bit of everything, a biography of Hiram Bingham, a travelogue, a historical text of Peru, and some ethics essays about antiquities. In trying to do too much , if succeeds at nothing. it has interested me enough in Hiram Bingham, that I will look for other books about him.
Another issue is that the author is not the most descriptive of writers, when I am reading a travel book about some place I will probably never see, I would like the author to “paint pictures with his words” so that I can vicariously “see” his views and experience the trip. Some of the writing is very flat and leaves you with a let down feel,… okay we got to Machu Picchu, now we’re going someplace else….what?
The main positive of the book is John Leivers, Mark Adam’s Australian born guide. He seemed like a fascinating person and I would probably have loved a story about him. There is also information about the controversies surrounding Machu Picchu and antiquities in general that was all very interesting. It seems to me that the book had an identity crisis. It tries to be a little bit of everything, a biography of Hiram Bingham, a travelogue, a historical text of Peru, and some ethics essays about antiquities. In trying to do too much , if succeeds at nothing. it has interested me enough in Hiram Bingham, that I will look for other books about him.
September 24, 2013
What a fun filled, laugh out loud romp through history as travel writer mark Adams follows the footsteps of the so called discoverer of Machu Picchu. Mark Adams quits his day job, hires some very interesting, characters and sets out to hike to Machu Picchu. His travel guide is an Australian survivalist, Jon, who very much resembles Crocodile Dundee. A very scrappy interesting man who I would love to see write his own book on his life time of adventures in places people would only dream of ever seeing. And seeing it in a rough and tumble way. What a life. He also employs muleteers and a cook. I cannot tell you how much fun this journey was. Very delightful which made all the facts and historical elements of it so much easier to digest. History for me can be extremely boring. So when I come along and find a book that entertains as well as teaches, it's just flat out wonderful.
Trivia bits I learned: bit of lore surrounding Bingham (the explorer) and Indiana Jones. Speculation that maybe Indy was fashioned a bit after Bingham. Both college profs by day and swashbuckling archeologists on the side and both sported the Fedora.
The other bit I loved was how the Incas connected all the cities together by the stars and now perfectly engineered this all was. How the sun and stars helped them align the buildings perfectly despite how far apart they were and in such dense jungle. Just amazing!I
You can be sure I'll be putting this one on the places to travel list.
Trivia bits I learned: bit of lore surrounding Bingham (the explorer) and Indiana Jones. Speculation that maybe Indy was fashioned a bit after Bingham. Both college profs by day and swashbuckling archeologists on the side and both sported the Fedora.
The other bit I loved was how the Incas connected all the cities together by the stars and now perfectly engineered this all was. How the sun and stars helped them align the buildings perfectly despite how far apart they were and in such dense jungle. Just amazing!I
You can be sure I'll be putting this one on the places to travel list.
February 7, 2017
The author, Mark Adams, retraces the steps that led Yale Professor, Hiram Bingham, to discover Machu Picchu one hundred years ago, on July 24, 1911.
The chapters more or less alternate between Bingham’s and Adams’ expeditions. Adams packs a lot of information into the book. He includes anecdotes, observations and sometimes he tosses in hilarious tidbits. He also includes information on the flora and fauna as well as Inca history of the area. He also describes what it is like today. I picked up a bit of trivia: “Peru has twenty of the thirty-four types of climatic zones of the Earth and mules have bowel problems at high altitudes.”
The book is meticulously researched. The author does an okay job with intertwining three separate plots. I discovered that the April 1913 issue of the National Geographic is all about Bingham’s discovery of Machu Picchu. This is available on CD or on line for members. It was great to hike the Inca trail without doing the physical work and deal with the mosquitoes.
Andrew Garman does a good job narrating the book. Garman is an actor and audiobook narrator.
The chapters more or less alternate between Bingham’s and Adams’ expeditions. Adams packs a lot of information into the book. He includes anecdotes, observations and sometimes he tosses in hilarious tidbits. He also includes information on the flora and fauna as well as Inca history of the area. He also describes what it is like today. I picked up a bit of trivia: “Peru has twenty of the thirty-four types of climatic zones of the Earth and mules have bowel problems at high altitudes.”
The book is meticulously researched. The author does an okay job with intertwining three separate plots. I discovered that the April 1913 issue of the National Geographic is all about Bingham’s discovery of Machu Picchu. This is available on CD or on line for members. It was great to hike the Inca trail without doing the physical work and deal with the mosquitoes.
Andrew Garman does a good job narrating the book. Garman is an actor and audiobook narrator.
January 15, 2014
Machu Picchu was ON the list, but after reading this book, THE INCA TRAIL is on the list.
May 27, 2012
Mark Adams decides to trace the journey of the man who claimed to "discover" Machu Picchu, Hiram Bingham, and takes a very strenuous hike through Peru. This book chronicles that journey, as well as a return trip he took to hike the "Inca Trail."
If Adams had only written about his own journey, I'm not sure it would have been that interesting. He has worked in travel writing, albeit more as an armchair editor than a traveler, for years. He had connections to help him prepare, research, and advise him on equipment. He was never without a staff of cooks, guides, mule handlers, and hosts. Even though the conditions are hard, it isn't exactly a journey of self-discovery, which is what I prefer in travel writing. Nope. Adams is here to see the places that Bingham saw. And to learn important things like how you should wear two pairs of socks when hiking.
Luckily, Adams didn't just write about his own trek. He fills in the gaps with information on the Incas, the birth of archaeology and what probably happened with Machu Picchu before Bingham ever got there, and how the Spanish invasion of the 1500s and 1600s impacted the direction of history. There were some fun factoids that I enjoyed, like how there are other important mountain-top sites that might be even more interesting than Machu Picchu (but possibly not as breathtaking), that Tupac Shakur's name comes from an ancient Incan leader, and even learning more about the development of National Geographic.
There are two people mentioned in this book that I think have more interesting connections with Machu Picchu. The first is John, who has guided people through this area for decades (and some of his story is here). The other is Johan Reinhard, who has researched extensively about the meaning of the sites, and I plan to read his book, Machu Picchu: Exploring an Ancient Sacred Center.
No matter the tone or reason, this book makes me want to join the many who trek the Inca Trail. I'm not sure I'd ever be physically capable, but it is a nice dream!
If Adams had only written about his own journey, I'm not sure it would have been that interesting. He has worked in travel writing, albeit more as an armchair editor than a traveler, for years. He had connections to help him prepare, research, and advise him on equipment. He was never without a staff of cooks, guides, mule handlers, and hosts. Even though the conditions are hard, it isn't exactly a journey of self-discovery, which is what I prefer in travel writing. Nope. Adams is here to see the places that Bingham saw. And to learn important things like how you should wear two pairs of socks when hiking.
Luckily, Adams didn't just write about his own trek. He fills in the gaps with information on the Incas, the birth of archaeology and what probably happened with Machu Picchu before Bingham ever got there, and how the Spanish invasion of the 1500s and 1600s impacted the direction of history. There were some fun factoids that I enjoyed, like how there are other important mountain-top sites that might be even more interesting than Machu Picchu (but possibly not as breathtaking), that Tupac Shakur's name comes from an ancient Incan leader, and even learning more about the development of National Geographic.
There are two people mentioned in this book that I think have more interesting connections with Machu Picchu. The first is John, who has guided people through this area for decades (and some of his story is here). The other is Johan Reinhard, who has researched extensively about the meaning of the sites, and I plan to read his book, Machu Picchu: Exploring an Ancient Sacred Center.
No matter the tone or reason, this book makes me want to join the many who trek the Inca Trail. I'm not sure I'd ever be physically capable, but it is a nice dream!
September 5, 2013
Most travel books tend to be rather mediocre: There is no sense of wonder, no reason why anyone would envy the traveler and dream of following in his footsteps. Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time is a welcome exception to that sad rule. The author, Mark Adams, spent much of his life writing for outdoor magazines, but never had caught the travel bug himself ... until he decided to visit in person and on foot the Inca cities clustered north of Cuzco.
It helped being married to a Peruvian woman, but it was the author himself who found himself a capable guide -- an Aussie named John Leivers -- who was both a personable traveling companion and an extremely knowledgeable one.
Another inspiration was American explorer Hiram Bingham III, the so-called discoverer of Machu Picchu. Throughout his book, Adams cuts back and forth to Bingham's own experiences a hundred years ago. Whether Bingham actually discovered Machu Picchu was immaterial: It was his promotion of the Inca sites, with the help of Gilbert Grosvenor of National Geographic magazine that helped preserve dozens of ruins for posterity, together with his book The Lost City of the Incas. Again it doesn't matter whether it was "lost" or not. Bingham helped to make sure it never would be lost.
I myself hope to visit Peru next year, and I luckily chose this book as the first step in a rather extensive reading program. Because of my age, I will never take the Inca Trail, or climb to Machu Picchu or any of the other Inca mountain cities or shrines.
Whether or not you are interested in going to Peru, you will find yourself feeling a sense of wonder as you read these pages. An excellent read not only for real travelers, but also the armchair variety.
It helped being married to a Peruvian woman, but it was the author himself who found himself a capable guide -- an Aussie named John Leivers -- who was both a personable traveling companion and an extremely knowledgeable one.
Another inspiration was American explorer Hiram Bingham III, the so-called discoverer of Machu Picchu. Throughout his book, Adams cuts back and forth to Bingham's own experiences a hundred years ago. Whether Bingham actually discovered Machu Picchu was immaterial: It was his promotion of the Inca sites, with the help of Gilbert Grosvenor of National Geographic magazine that helped preserve dozens of ruins for posterity, together with his book The Lost City of the Incas. Again it doesn't matter whether it was "lost" or not. Bingham helped to make sure it never would be lost.
I myself hope to visit Peru next year, and I luckily chose this book as the first step in a rather extensive reading program. Because of my age, I will never take the Inca Trail, or climb to Machu Picchu or any of the other Inca mountain cities or shrines.
Whether or not you are interested in going to Peru, you will find yourself feeling a sense of wonder as you read these pages. An excellent read not only for real travelers, but also the armchair variety.
April 1, 2023
“People used to be travelers, now they’re tourists. People want hotels, cafes, the Internet. They won’t even camp!”
Guilty.
I chose this book because I couldn’t see myself enduring Hiram Bingham’s book chronicling the discovery. I figured that this would have more personality given that the author was not an explorer or adventurer prior to embarking on his quest. The ‘layperson’s’ point of view was appealing to me. This book was engaging and an easy read. Plus, today ... I turned right at Machu Picchu!!!!
Travel writer, Mark Adams, follows in the footsteps of Hiram Bingham, the man credited with discovering Machu Picchu. I actually enjoyed the journey and would have loved the book told from John Leivers, the guide’s, POV, too. I loved the adventure as much as I loved learning along the way. Adams has a perfect balance of history and travelogue; I enjoyed learning about the muleteers, cooks and the people Adams and Leivers met along the trail. I smiled at the Quechua kids who admitted they didn’t know about New York or USA, but wondered if it was really true that Michael Jackson was dead!
I was in awe of this royal city that was built to withstand Andean rainstorms and the power of 2 fault lines under its foundations.
Imagine that the expedition that made Bingham famous was nearly canceled at the last minute! Add to that, the fact that he squeezed in 3 expeditions between 1911 and 1915 all while raising 7 young sons and holding down a teaching job at Yale.
My takeaway? Wear two pairs of socks when I hike the Inca Trail AND remember to splay my toes when going downhill.
Now that I enjoy audiobooks, I believe this would be best listened to. I attempted to read this on our land excursion (trains, planes, and automobiles) to Machu Picchu and would have had plenty of time to listen to it.
Guilty.
I chose this book because I couldn’t see myself enduring Hiram Bingham’s book chronicling the discovery. I figured that this would have more personality given that the author was not an explorer or adventurer prior to embarking on his quest. The ‘layperson’s’ point of view was appealing to me. This book was engaging and an easy read. Plus, today ... I turned right at Machu Picchu!!!!
Travel writer, Mark Adams, follows in the footsteps of Hiram Bingham, the man credited with discovering Machu Picchu. I actually enjoyed the journey and would have loved the book told from John Leivers, the guide’s, POV, too. I loved the adventure as much as I loved learning along the way. Adams has a perfect balance of history and travelogue; I enjoyed learning about the muleteers, cooks and the people Adams and Leivers met along the trail. I smiled at the Quechua kids who admitted they didn’t know about New York or USA, but wondered if it was really true that Michael Jackson was dead!
I was in awe of this royal city that was built to withstand Andean rainstorms and the power of 2 fault lines under its foundations.
Imagine that the expedition that made Bingham famous was nearly canceled at the last minute! Add to that, the fact that he squeezed in 3 expeditions between 1911 and 1915 all while raising 7 young sons and holding down a teaching job at Yale.
My takeaway? Wear two pairs of socks when I hike the Inca Trail AND remember to splay my toes when going downhill.
Now that I enjoy audiobooks, I believe this would be best listened to. I attempted to read this on our land excursion (trains, planes, and automobiles) to Machu Picchu and would have had plenty of time to listen to it.
May 31, 2015
In Turn Right at Machu Picchu Mark Adams interweaves his own adventure treks to important Inca sites in and around Machu Picchu - under the expert guidance of Australian John Leivers (and, on the Incan Trial, Ephrain Valles) - with Hiram Bingham’s Peruvian expeditions and controversial discovery of Machu Picchu as well as with the history of the Incas both before and after the Spanish invasion.
With a light, and often humorous touch, Adams covers over 500 years of Incan history, major Inca sites such as Cusco, Ollantaytambo, Vitcos, Vilcabamba, Choquequirao, Llactatpata and, of course, Machu Picchu itself (once in October and then in June, at the Winter solstice). He canvases theories and controversies, tracks down elusive experts, treks up and down precipitous and sometimes jungle-choked trails, admires Incan monuments and mountain landscapes and brings to life the people he interacts with and the Incas, who build the timeless cities with exquisite skill and imagination. Maps, glossaries, photographs, timeline and index is included for easy reference. His style (unlike Bingham's apparently) is engaging and easy to read.
This is a great book for the scholar, the traveller or just anyone who is fascinated by the sublime beauty and mystery of Machu Picchu.
With a light, and often humorous touch, Adams covers over 500 years of Incan history, major Inca sites such as Cusco, Ollantaytambo, Vitcos, Vilcabamba, Choquequirao, Llactatpata and, of course, Machu Picchu itself (once in October and then in June, at the Winter solstice). He canvases theories and controversies, tracks down elusive experts, treks up and down precipitous and sometimes jungle-choked trails, admires Incan monuments and mountain landscapes and brings to life the people he interacts with and the Incas, who build the timeless cities with exquisite skill and imagination. Maps, glossaries, photographs, timeline and index is included for easy reference. His style (unlike Bingham's apparently) is engaging and easy to read.
This is a great book for the scholar, the traveller or just anyone who is fascinated by the sublime beauty and mystery of Machu Picchu.
April 14, 2013
The best thing about this book, besides the cover, is the fact that Adams, paradoxically, manages to demystify Macau Picu while making it an even powerful symbol of mystery and discover.
IT’s a wonderful travel log, interspersed with history. Adams has a great since of humor.
IT’s a wonderful travel log, interspersed with history. Adams has a great since of humor.
October 21, 2015
I greatly enjoyed this well-written travel adventure by Mark Adams. A New York resident, Adams worked for many years in travel publishing, and his writing style reflects his journalistic skills. Turn Right at Machu Picchu is a warm-hearted, funny and entertaining account of Adams' journeys in a remote part of Peru to retrace the steps of Hiram Bingham III, the 'discoverer' of the Inca ruins at Machu Picchu. It is also an affectionate portrait of a remarkable man, John Leivers, the Australian ex-pat guide, with his laconic style, meticulous planning and profound knowledge of the Inca sites around Cusco. It is largely thanks to Leivers' skills that Adams survives, humping his heavy backpack hundreds of kilometres in rugged mountain countryside to re-visit the numerous locations identified by Bingham a century earlier.
Even before the end of his long life, Bingham's claims to have discovered the lost capital city of the last Inca Emperor were being disputed. His reputation was also tarnished by allegations of looting Peruvian national treasures. His highly-readable 1948 book Lost City of the Incas captured the public imagination, and he remained a hero in popular culture, despite the misgivings voiced in academia. One of Adams' self-appointed tasks was to examine the criticisms, to see if they hold up today. He also wanted to see with Bingham's eyes the nature of the landscape and the endeavours of the lost Inca empire. I think he succeeded very well - the structure of his narrative swings between chapters about Bingham's original journeys and accounts of his own experiences hiking along rough trails in the company of a bevy of quirky characters.
If there is one key character in this book that never talks, but speaks volumes, it is the stunning beauty and grandeur of the landscapes in which the adventurers travel. With the expertise of Leivers at his elbow, Adams gradually came to the realisation that the Incas viewed their environment on a grand scale, which embraced and interconnected large areas of the landscape in an harmonious and spiritual domain. His final steps on the Inca Trail revealed to him the magnificence of that vision, lost over 450 year earlier with the bloody Spanish invasion.
I had previously read Bingham's book Lost City of the Incas, and it greatly added to my reading enjoyment, to recognise sections of the original text being discussed by the modern-day author. A great self-promoter, Bingham's claims need to be viewed cautiously nowadays. Despite this, Adams gives full credit to the original adventurer in terms of his scientific methodology and meticulous planning. While Machu Picchu has been comprehensively disproved as the last capital city of the Incas, it remains a magnificent testament to the powers of that lost culture.
Even before the end of his long life, Bingham's claims to have discovered the lost capital city of the last Inca Emperor were being disputed. His reputation was also tarnished by allegations of looting Peruvian national treasures. His highly-readable 1948 book Lost City of the Incas captured the public imagination, and he remained a hero in popular culture, despite the misgivings voiced in academia. One of Adams' self-appointed tasks was to examine the criticisms, to see if they hold up today. He also wanted to see with Bingham's eyes the nature of the landscape and the endeavours of the lost Inca empire. I think he succeeded very well - the structure of his narrative swings between chapters about Bingham's original journeys and accounts of his own experiences hiking along rough trails in the company of a bevy of quirky characters.
If there is one key character in this book that never talks, but speaks volumes, it is the stunning beauty and grandeur of the landscapes in which the adventurers travel. With the expertise of Leivers at his elbow, Adams gradually came to the realisation that the Incas viewed their environment on a grand scale, which embraced and interconnected large areas of the landscape in an harmonious and spiritual domain. His final steps on the Inca Trail revealed to him the magnificence of that vision, lost over 450 year earlier with the bloody Spanish invasion.
I had previously read Bingham's book Lost City of the Incas, and it greatly added to my reading enjoyment, to recognise sections of the original text being discussed by the modern-day author. A great self-promoter, Bingham's claims need to be viewed cautiously nowadays. Despite this, Adams gives full credit to the original adventurer in terms of his scientific methodology and meticulous planning. While Machu Picchu has been comprehensively disproved as the last capital city of the Incas, it remains a magnificent testament to the powers of that lost culture.
October 7, 2016
One of my greatest dreams is to visit Machu Picchu and I was excited to read this book but my enthusiasm waned with each page.
I'm kind of in love with Bill Bryson. Reading his books about his traveling experiences gives me immense pleasure. He's hilarious, informative and entertaining as hell. If I were to describe the author of this book, I would call him a "Bill Bryson wannabe."
The author tried to be humorous, but while Bryson's humor is mostly self-deprecative, most of Adams' humor is used to put others down while trying to make himself look better. Whether it's mocking the tourists who can't appreciate the ruins as deeply as him, or making fun the traditions of the local people, he finds most people he encounters as less than him. He even speaks of his own son derogatorily! His attitude was grating and made it hard for me to trust him.
Another problem was the jumping from place to place. I had an extremely hard time following his haphazard organization. The book would've benefitted greatly from having pictures inserted at points to illustrate what he was talking about. As a voracious reader, I'm fairly good at imagining descriptions, but his were confusing and disorienting. I frequently had to pause to look up what he was talking about, even after pages of his boring descriptions, because I was so lost.
The worst part came when he actually reached Machu Picchu. It was the most anticlimactic experience I've ever encountered. He basically skimmed over it, went back home and then announced that he was planning another trip back. There was still a good amount of book left and I was completely dismayed. All I could think was "Good lord, make it stop!"
I admit to having to skim through sections at the end. I was so frustrated, I couldn't bear it any longer. I was relieved to finally have it over.
I gave it 2 stars because it's not the worst book I've ever read and I did glean a very small amount of information. I would love to learn more about Hiram Bingham and more about the culture of Machu Picchu. I'll have to find a better book. Please send any recommendations my way!
I'm kind of in love with Bill Bryson. Reading his books about his traveling experiences gives me immense pleasure. He's hilarious, informative and entertaining as hell. If I were to describe the author of this book, I would call him a "Bill Bryson wannabe."
The author tried to be humorous, but while Bryson's humor is mostly self-deprecative, most of Adams' humor is used to put others down while trying to make himself look better. Whether it's mocking the tourists who can't appreciate the ruins as deeply as him, or making fun the traditions of the local people, he finds most people he encounters as less than him. He even speaks of his own son derogatorily! His attitude was grating and made it hard for me to trust him.
Another problem was the jumping from place to place. I had an extremely hard time following his haphazard organization. The book would've benefitted greatly from having pictures inserted at points to illustrate what he was talking about. As a voracious reader, I'm fairly good at imagining descriptions, but his were confusing and disorienting. I frequently had to pause to look up what he was talking about, even after pages of his boring descriptions, because I was so lost.
The worst part came when he actually reached Machu Picchu. It was the most anticlimactic experience I've ever encountered. He basically skimmed over it, went back home and then announced that he was planning another trip back. There was still a good amount of book left and I was completely dismayed. All I could think was "Good lord, make it stop!"
I admit to having to skim through sections at the end. I was so frustrated, I couldn't bear it any longer. I was relieved to finally have it over.
I gave it 2 stars because it's not the worst book I've ever read and I did glean a very small amount of information. I would love to learn more about Hiram Bingham and more about the culture of Machu Picchu. I'll have to find a better book. Please send any recommendations my way!
June 23, 2023
When this book showed up as a donation at my Little Free Library Shed, I wasn’t sure about it at first. But the picture on the cover captivated me. It reminded me of when I was in 6th grade, and a teacher asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up.
I said, “I want to be an archaeologist.”
I liked the idea of travelling to unknown worlds and uncovering mysteries of lost civilizations. It seemed intriguing.
Mark Adams steps into the active role of field investigator of a hallmark tourist destination that calls to historians and adventurers alike.
In this book, we begin by learning more about Hiram Bingham III, the known discover of Machu Picchu.
The author includes maps. He talks about the history. The geography, the geology, the nature of Peru and the Andes. The ruins. The continued mystery of the area.
If anyone is interested in taking such a trip, this might be an interesting book to read before such a trip.
For me, it was just interesting to be reminded why I thought in 6th grade I wanted to become an archaeologist.
Had it not been donated, this book never would have crossed my radar.
October 1, 2011
One hundred years ago on July 24, 1911, explorer and Yale lecturer Hiram Bingham excitedly cabled the US from Peru about his discovery of an ancient site, potentially the “lost city of the Incas.” That site was Machu Picchu, or “the old peak” in the local language of Quechua, a city of architectural grandeur and ancient temples. Now in 2011, his claim is disputed, and he is accused of stealing historical artifacts and trumpeting up a “discovery” of something that was never actually lost. But there’s no question that he turned the world’s attention to South America and Inca history, and that he may have done even more—inspired the Indiana Jones stories.
Mark Adams, working a desk job editing adventure travel stories, decided to find out the truth for himself, at least as much as possible. He set out to the Andes to retrace the famous explorer’s steps and in the process to study Bingham’s life and writings as well as Inca history. The result is Turn Right at Machu Picchu, a fascinating read which combines a history of Inca-Spainard clashes in Peru, Bingham’s adventures in exploring, and a travelogue of Adams’ own adventures in Peru, with an Australian guide right out of Crocodile Dundee and Indiana Jones.
I really, really liked this book.
Although I was thankful for the historical parts which gave me background, my favorite parts were the first person travels. I thoroughly enjoyed the story of his travels all over Peru, and the characters with whom he was traveling. First off, there was Australian guide John Leivers, who wears the same clothes every day no matter the weather, always has a machete on hand, and has no permanent address. He just has a different way of looking at the world, due to his experience of it. Then there were the muleteers and cooks, with their coca leaves to combat altitude sickness and bags of sweet snacks and sugary soft drinks, telling crazy tales and responding to events with stoicism and humour. There are the people he meets along the way, both locals and other travelers. I loved the story of the two Quechua kids, asking Adams where he was from. They had not heard of New York or the United States, but they said to him, “Is it true Michael Jackson is dead?” And finally, there is Peru itself; the steep hikes that take the travelers through different climates in the course of a single afternoon, the Inca ruins and the mysteries hidden within them, and the travails of its history. Because, although I have confessed to enjoying the modern bits best, the history is actually fascinating—gory and bloodstained and full of excitement, lots of double-crossing from both sides, fleeing Inca warriors and kings, and pursuing Spainards in search of legendary gold. Adams is a good writer, and he makes his subject matter live, infusing all with a subtle humour and wry turn of phrase.
Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time actually encompasses several trips that Adams takes to Peru, including his account of hiking the famous Inca Trail and even arriving to see the sunrise of the summer solstice and having a mistico in a vest embroidered with astrological signs tell him the morning had been a “major bummer,” with “hundreds of harmonically inclined people assembled…and then nothing.” (p. 285) And it ends as all good adventure yarns should—with Adams back home, talking to John Leivers, and starting to plan and hope and dream of yet another trip.
Mark Adams, working a desk job editing adventure travel stories, decided to find out the truth for himself, at least as much as possible. He set out to the Andes to retrace the famous explorer’s steps and in the process to study Bingham’s life and writings as well as Inca history. The result is Turn Right at Machu Picchu, a fascinating read which combines a history of Inca-Spainard clashes in Peru, Bingham’s adventures in exploring, and a travelogue of Adams’ own adventures in Peru, with an Australian guide right out of Crocodile Dundee and Indiana Jones.
I really, really liked this book.
Although I was thankful for the historical parts which gave me background, my favorite parts were the first person travels. I thoroughly enjoyed the story of his travels all over Peru, and the characters with whom he was traveling. First off, there was Australian guide John Leivers, who wears the same clothes every day no matter the weather, always has a machete on hand, and has no permanent address. He just has a different way of looking at the world, due to his experience of it. Then there were the muleteers and cooks, with their coca leaves to combat altitude sickness and bags of sweet snacks and sugary soft drinks, telling crazy tales and responding to events with stoicism and humour. There are the people he meets along the way, both locals and other travelers. I loved the story of the two Quechua kids, asking Adams where he was from. They had not heard of New York or the United States, but they said to him, “Is it true Michael Jackson is dead?” And finally, there is Peru itself; the steep hikes that take the travelers through different climates in the course of a single afternoon, the Inca ruins and the mysteries hidden within them, and the travails of its history. Because, although I have confessed to enjoying the modern bits best, the history is actually fascinating—gory and bloodstained and full of excitement, lots of double-crossing from both sides, fleeing Inca warriors and kings, and pursuing Spainards in search of legendary gold. Adams is a good writer, and he makes his subject matter live, infusing all with a subtle humour and wry turn of phrase.
Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time actually encompasses several trips that Adams takes to Peru, including his account of hiking the famous Inca Trail and even arriving to see the sunrise of the summer solstice and having a mistico in a vest embroidered with astrological signs tell him the morning had been a “major bummer,” with “hundreds of harmonically inclined people assembled…and then nothing.” (p. 285) And it ends as all good adventure yarns should—with Adams back home, talking to John Leivers, and starting to plan and hope and dream of yet another trip.
January 9, 2012
For most of my life I have been fascinated with Machu Picchu and have always had a desire to hike to this famous lost city of the Inca's. My daughter who is 33 years younger than me hiked to Machu Picchu a few years ago and the two of us have a competitive history of visiting the most locations. I have her beat in states (48 to 46) but she left me in the dust a number of years ago in number of foreign countries visited. I decided to read this book to live my daughter's hike vicariously and perhaps a hike to Machu Picchu is still in my future.
The book tells the story in two different times. Mark Adams decided to retrace Hiram Bingham's " expedition in the early 1900's when he "discovered" Machu Picchu. Bingham ended up taking some relics from the sight that he gave to Yale University and the battle by Peru to recoup these "stolen" goods is covered in the book.
I found the book quite interesting but I must admit that the names of some of the sites and Inca leaders caused me some confusion. I mean why can't they rename Vilcabamba the "Villa" of maybe change Llactpata to "LA". Same goes for some of the Inca emperors, Atahualpa could become "Ata" and Manco Inca Yupanqui could become "Yuppie" This would have made it much easier for me to keep track of everything and I am sure the Peruvians would be quite agreeable to these changes. Just a thought.
The book is a good adventure read and if you have any interest in Machu Picchu I think you will find it most enjoyable. I found Mark Adam's guide John Leivers a very interesting character. I think a separate book could be written just about his life.
The book tells the story in two different times. Mark Adams decided to retrace Hiram Bingham's " expedition in the early 1900's when he "discovered" Machu Picchu. Bingham ended up taking some relics from the sight that he gave to Yale University and the battle by Peru to recoup these "stolen" goods is covered in the book.
I found the book quite interesting but I must admit that the names of some of the sites and Inca leaders caused me some confusion. I mean why can't they rename Vilcabamba the "Villa" of maybe change Llactpata to "LA". Same goes for some of the Inca emperors, Atahualpa could become "Ata" and Manco Inca Yupanqui could become "Yuppie" This would have made it much easier for me to keep track of everything and I am sure the Peruvians would be quite agreeable to these changes. Just a thought.
The book is a good adventure read and if you have any interest in Machu Picchu I think you will find it most enjoyable. I found Mark Adam's guide John Leivers a very interesting character. I think a separate book could be written just about his life.
March 2, 2013
I went to Peru in the Summer of 2012, and while I was there, I was asked if I had read this book. Obviously, I had not. Thus, when I got back to the US, I decided that I would start to read it. I experienced so many amazing things in Peru, and what I experienced at Machu Picchu was breathtaking and truly indescribable. I was hoping to retrieve done if those awe-inspiring feelings as I read this. Instead, I was disappointed. The writing was lackluster and shifty. The bouncing through history appeared awkward at times and uncomfortable at certain moments. I'm a huge history fan, and this seemed disjointed. He didn't capture the essence of the culture, places, or spirituality at all. It left me wanting.
January 5, 2015
Mark Adams' "Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time" is a book that's a bit hard to classify. All at once, it's a serious (and seriously funny) travelogue; a smart and tightly written history; and an investigative report into the greatest archaeological discovery of the last century.
Author Adams spent time writing and editing for the now defunct National Geographic Adventurer magazine and despite working with and alongside some of the world's hardest core adventure travelers, he admits to not being much of one himself. He'd visited Machu Picchu with his son, but he'd done it the tourist way. He wanted to REdiscover Machu Picchu - the way its’ original discoverer, Hiram Bingham, had 100 years ago this July. He wanted to hike, climb, slog, tent and explore his way through the Vilcabamba region of Peru and finish at the site that was recently named one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.
Adams doesn't camp and hadn't been in a tent for years leading up to his Peruvian excursion. His preparation for the trip was extensive, including dressing the part of adventurer. "Have you ever seen Mr. Travel Guy? He's the fellow who strides through international airports dressed like he's flying off to hunt wildebeests - shirt with dozens of pockets, drip-dry pants that zip off into shorts, floppy hat with a cord pulled tight under the chin in case a twister blows through the baggage claim area. All of this describes exactly what I was wearing. I could have been trick-or-treating as Hemingway."
Make no mistake. Adams trip was an uncompromising adventure. There were no soft train rides, or helicopter drops into the jungle. Adams hiked, slept in tents, climbed miles of off-the-beaten-path terrain, and used the same bathroom facilities as Bingham had almost 100 years earlier - nature. His only chance at being successful in this endeavor was to surround himself with quality guides and support. He emphasized when he hired his guide, experienced explorer and discoverer in his own right John Leivers, that he wanted his trip to be about walking in Bingham's footsteps.
The real joy in reading "Turn Right at Machu Picchu" is the frank and insightful humor Adams embeds within his adventurous tales. While Leivers was his primary guide, Adams was surrounded by a colorful and interesting crowd, some of which speak only the ancient language of the Inca - quechua. One guide genuinely feared a man-eating devil goat that guarded the entrance to a farm used as a campsite. Adams points out that rumors and ghosts are abound in Peru and particularly in the Andes where "the mischievous twins of Superstition and Legend tend to thrive." Adams also struggled to communicate with Leivers because they come from such different worlds and experiences. Adams finally strikes a note of commonality when a fairly severe bout of bowel issues made his adventurer guide reminisce about his own time with the same problem.
He takes seemingly meaningless interactions and with only a few words turns them into something substantive, funny and culturally eye-opening. "One of the things about Peru that I'd found it hardest to adjust to - even more so than the popularity of Nescafe in a country that grew some of the finest coffee beans in the world -- was la hora perunana, Peruvian Time. This is the code, indecipherable to North Americans, by which Peruvians determine the latest possible moment that it is acceptable to arrive for an appointment. The statement "I'll be right back" can mean just that, or it can mean that the speaker is about to depart via steamship for Cairo. The habit drove Bingham bananas and hasn't improved over time, despite a widespread government campaign to combat tardiness a few years ago."
Mark's narrative parallels the expeditions of Hiram Bingham as documented in his books "Inca Land" and "Lost City of the Incas". Where Bingham went, so went Adams. What Adams sees, so wrote the famed explorer. Throughout the book, Adams provides a very smartly written and readable examination of Bingham's extensive and dramatic expeditions. His chapters are short and each thread of his story - his own travel, the history of the Inca Conquest and Bingham's parallel journeys - are woven as seamlessly, intricately and colorfully as a prototypical Andean poncho.
In Adams' parallels with Inca history, he points out the difficulty in separating fact from fiction "because virtually all the sources available are Spanish accounts of stories that had already been vetted by the Inca emperors to highlight their own heroic roles. Imagine a history of modern Iraq, written by Dick Cheney and based on authorized biographies of Saddam Hussein published in Arabic, and you'll get some idea of the problem historians face." Still Adams deftly pulls together multiple resources and his own independent research to trace the earliest beginnings of the Spanish Conquest until they finally subdued the last Inca Emperors.
It was the last Inca holdout that Bingham was seeking. The historical record is confusing, but consistently pointed to a location called Vilcabamba. It was unclear whether Vilcabamba was a town, city, or region, and Bingham's search was further muddied by the historical record pointing to several "final" Inca strongholds. But search he did, and Adams followed.
The first major site on Adams' agenda was Choquequiro, known as the "Cradle of Gold". The site is far less accessible than Machu Picchu despite stop-and-start initiatives by the Peruvian government to create easier tourist access through the Peruvian jungle. It's estimated that only 20-30 percent of the site has been cleared and Adams quotes his guide Leivers suggesting that "When this is all cleared, it'll be one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world."
Much new modern analysis of Machu Picchu and the entire Vilcabamba region northwest of Cuzco, revolves around archaeoastronomy - the study of archaeological sites in relation to their positions to each other, their environment and the heavens. Leivers and his ever-present handheld GPS would pinpoint locations of buildings and objects throughout the trip and started to pull together the connective thread of the regions' ruins. Upon climbing to the mountain peak that overlooks the Machu Picchu ruins, Adams wrote, "I had to admit when I ... saw how the site aligned with the natural features surrounding it I'd felt a twinge of...something. Awe? Transendence?"
Adams points out that among the various ruins that Bingham discovered, he also brought to the world the famed Inca Trail which thousands of hikers travel each year. Many Inca trails cross the former Empire, but there's only one Inca Trail - the one that leads to Machu Picchu. Adams followed miles of Inca trail throughout his trip, but needed a second trip with Leivers to explore the Inca Trail itself, and discover the trails' relationship with Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is dotted with ruins of various sizes. Each ruin, whether placed within a terraced valley, or providing a dramatic overlook across jungle and mountains, in its own way, builds dramatically to the point at which it connects with Machu Picchu. Explorer and National Geographic Society Explorer-in-Residence Johan Reinhard succinctly places the Inca Trail in its’ proper context, "you can't finish the Inca Trail and NOT know that this was the end point of a pilgrimage."
As one might imagine, such a hard core experience would have a significant impact on one's life. As Leivers and Adams started their ascent of Mount Machu Picchu, Leivers starts to make a walking stick for himself, but finds that he's left his large hunting knife at their hotel in Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. Adams unzipped his pack, dug around for a moment and then handed his knife to Leivers. The world-wide traveler and adventurer who's led trips across deserts and mountains said "That's good preparation, Mark. Nice sharp blade on it, too." Mark realizes "It was, I'm not ashamed to admit, one of the proudest moments of my life."
Author Adams spent time writing and editing for the now defunct National Geographic Adventurer magazine and despite working with and alongside some of the world's hardest core adventure travelers, he admits to not being much of one himself. He'd visited Machu Picchu with his son, but he'd done it the tourist way. He wanted to REdiscover Machu Picchu - the way its’ original discoverer, Hiram Bingham, had 100 years ago this July. He wanted to hike, climb, slog, tent and explore his way through the Vilcabamba region of Peru and finish at the site that was recently named one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.
Adams doesn't camp and hadn't been in a tent for years leading up to his Peruvian excursion. His preparation for the trip was extensive, including dressing the part of adventurer. "Have you ever seen Mr. Travel Guy? He's the fellow who strides through international airports dressed like he's flying off to hunt wildebeests - shirt with dozens of pockets, drip-dry pants that zip off into shorts, floppy hat with a cord pulled tight under the chin in case a twister blows through the baggage claim area. All of this describes exactly what I was wearing. I could have been trick-or-treating as Hemingway."
Make no mistake. Adams trip was an uncompromising adventure. There were no soft train rides, or helicopter drops into the jungle. Adams hiked, slept in tents, climbed miles of off-the-beaten-path terrain, and used the same bathroom facilities as Bingham had almost 100 years earlier - nature. His only chance at being successful in this endeavor was to surround himself with quality guides and support. He emphasized when he hired his guide, experienced explorer and discoverer in his own right John Leivers, that he wanted his trip to be about walking in Bingham's footsteps.
The real joy in reading "Turn Right at Machu Picchu" is the frank and insightful humor Adams embeds within his adventurous tales. While Leivers was his primary guide, Adams was surrounded by a colorful and interesting crowd, some of which speak only the ancient language of the Inca - quechua. One guide genuinely feared a man-eating devil goat that guarded the entrance to a farm used as a campsite. Adams points out that rumors and ghosts are abound in Peru and particularly in the Andes where "the mischievous twins of Superstition and Legend tend to thrive." Adams also struggled to communicate with Leivers because they come from such different worlds and experiences. Adams finally strikes a note of commonality when a fairly severe bout of bowel issues made his adventurer guide reminisce about his own time with the same problem.
He takes seemingly meaningless interactions and with only a few words turns them into something substantive, funny and culturally eye-opening. "One of the things about Peru that I'd found it hardest to adjust to - even more so than the popularity of Nescafe in a country that grew some of the finest coffee beans in the world -- was la hora perunana, Peruvian Time. This is the code, indecipherable to North Americans, by which Peruvians determine the latest possible moment that it is acceptable to arrive for an appointment. The statement "I'll be right back" can mean just that, or it can mean that the speaker is about to depart via steamship for Cairo. The habit drove Bingham bananas and hasn't improved over time, despite a widespread government campaign to combat tardiness a few years ago."
Mark's narrative parallels the expeditions of Hiram Bingham as documented in his books "Inca Land" and "Lost City of the Incas". Where Bingham went, so went Adams. What Adams sees, so wrote the famed explorer. Throughout the book, Adams provides a very smartly written and readable examination of Bingham's extensive and dramatic expeditions. His chapters are short and each thread of his story - his own travel, the history of the Inca Conquest and Bingham's parallel journeys - are woven as seamlessly, intricately and colorfully as a prototypical Andean poncho.
In Adams' parallels with Inca history, he points out the difficulty in separating fact from fiction "because virtually all the sources available are Spanish accounts of stories that had already been vetted by the Inca emperors to highlight their own heroic roles. Imagine a history of modern Iraq, written by Dick Cheney and based on authorized biographies of Saddam Hussein published in Arabic, and you'll get some idea of the problem historians face." Still Adams deftly pulls together multiple resources and his own independent research to trace the earliest beginnings of the Spanish Conquest until they finally subdued the last Inca Emperors.
It was the last Inca holdout that Bingham was seeking. The historical record is confusing, but consistently pointed to a location called Vilcabamba. It was unclear whether Vilcabamba was a town, city, or region, and Bingham's search was further muddied by the historical record pointing to several "final" Inca strongholds. But search he did, and Adams followed.
The first major site on Adams' agenda was Choquequiro, known as the "Cradle of Gold". The site is far less accessible than Machu Picchu despite stop-and-start initiatives by the Peruvian government to create easier tourist access through the Peruvian jungle. It's estimated that only 20-30 percent of the site has been cleared and Adams quotes his guide Leivers suggesting that "When this is all cleared, it'll be one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world."
Much new modern analysis of Machu Picchu and the entire Vilcabamba region northwest of Cuzco, revolves around archaeoastronomy - the study of archaeological sites in relation to their positions to each other, their environment and the heavens. Leivers and his ever-present handheld GPS would pinpoint locations of buildings and objects throughout the trip and started to pull together the connective thread of the regions' ruins. Upon climbing to the mountain peak that overlooks the Machu Picchu ruins, Adams wrote, "I had to admit when I ... saw how the site aligned with the natural features surrounding it I'd felt a twinge of...something. Awe? Transendence?"
Adams points out that among the various ruins that Bingham discovered, he also brought to the world the famed Inca Trail which thousands of hikers travel each year. Many Inca trails cross the former Empire, but there's only one Inca Trail - the one that leads to Machu Picchu. Adams followed miles of Inca trail throughout his trip, but needed a second trip with Leivers to explore the Inca Trail itself, and discover the trails' relationship with Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is dotted with ruins of various sizes. Each ruin, whether placed within a terraced valley, or providing a dramatic overlook across jungle and mountains, in its own way, builds dramatically to the point at which it connects with Machu Picchu. Explorer and National Geographic Society Explorer-in-Residence Johan Reinhard succinctly places the Inca Trail in its’ proper context, "you can't finish the Inca Trail and NOT know that this was the end point of a pilgrimage."
As one might imagine, such a hard core experience would have a significant impact on one's life. As Leivers and Adams started their ascent of Mount Machu Picchu, Leivers starts to make a walking stick for himself, but finds that he's left his large hunting knife at their hotel in Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. Adams unzipped his pack, dug around for a moment and then handed his knife to Leivers. The world-wide traveler and adventurer who's led trips across deserts and mountains said "That's good preparation, Mark. Nice sharp blade on it, too." Mark realizes "It was, I'm not ashamed to admit, one of the proudest moments of my life."
March 10, 2021
An informative and entertaining overview of Machu Picchu. I was fortunate enough to get to visit Machu Picchu a couple years ago and was blown away. While this book told me tons about the area and Incan history that I didn't know at the time I'm still glad I visited the area prior to reading this book for the same reason I like to watch a movie before I hear the spoilers or read a book before hearing all about it (i.e., so I can experience it for myself before someone else's opinion skews my own experience). Highly recommended if you enjoy travelogues, South American history, etc.
January 23, 2022
When a friend told me about this book, I was instantly interested. The book is a travelogue to Maccu Pichu, though it is also the story of Hiram Bingham III “discovery” of the Inca city in the early 20 th Century.
Having read it, it’s hard not to compare it to Bryson’s “Walk in the Woods”. Rather naive suburban dwelling journalist goes on difficult trek while teaching the reader some history and some light humor.
I wouldn’t want to prejudice readers to Adams, nor take anything away from his accomplishment. Any mention of this book should start with a comment about Adams really drawing a picture of the area and the reader will be ready to board a plane to Peru.
The book does a great job of giving a good introduction to the Inca ruins and if not a complete picture, gives enough reference to where to go to next. Bingham is an interesting character too. Possibly an inspiration for Indiana Jones- he was one of the greats of the Exploration era- his discoveries helped kick off National Geographic and of course, the debate over who owns Ruins and historical artifacts.
This one is worthwhile for sure and though I started the review wanting to do otherwise, this does have a whiff of Bryson, Sarah Vowell and AJ Jacobs. If you like their work or want a fun read about Machu Piccu, pick this up.
Having read it, it’s hard not to compare it to Bryson’s “Walk in the Woods”. Rather naive suburban dwelling journalist goes on difficult trek while teaching the reader some history and some light humor.
I wouldn’t want to prejudice readers to Adams, nor take anything away from his accomplishment. Any mention of this book should start with a comment about Adams really drawing a picture of the area and the reader will be ready to board a plane to Peru.
The book does a great job of giving a good introduction to the Inca ruins and if not a complete picture, gives enough reference to where to go to next. Bingham is an interesting character too. Possibly an inspiration for Indiana Jones- he was one of the greats of the Exploration era- his discoveries helped kick off National Geographic and of course, the debate over who owns Ruins and historical artifacts.
This one is worthwhile for sure and though I started the review wanting to do otherwise, this does have a whiff of Bryson, Sarah Vowell and AJ Jacobs. If you like their work or want a fun read about Machu Piccu, pick this up.
July 12, 2016
I was expecting to read about a first-time hiker's experience on the Inca Trail. Instead, I found myself in the middle of a 300-page bromance. I liked hearing about Mark's trip, and getting to know John, and learning about Hiram Bingham, and hearing how Mark met his wife, and reading some of the theories about Macchu Picchu's significance, but maybe not all in the same book.
An accurate summary: "Intrigued by tales that Aurita had told me of even greater wonders along the Inca Trail, my friend and I tried to enter Peru via he Lake Titicaca ferry but were rebuffed by a menacing teenage soldier carrying an AK-47 and wearing a Barbie backpack. I looked across the water toward Peru and vowed to return one day. Then an old man with a cane picked my pocket."
Kinda how travel really is, though.
Even though I wasn't crazy about the construction, I would still recommend to people who hope to hike the Inca Trail. He does have some good tips buried in there.
*In addition to Macchu Picchu, visit: Sacsahuaman, Llactapata
*Walk rail line to Aguas Calientes instead of riding train - goes through Mandor Pampa
*Take "back door" route to Machu Picchu - train shuttle that runs once a day from hydroelectric plant on the Urubamba river. Take bus to Santa Maria, transfer to smaller bus at Santa Teresa, flag down combi bus to train station and Hidroelectrica and walk along the tracks. Saves you $103 (163)
*enter via Sun Gate if you walk the trail
*Deserted stone path that runs from Choquequirao to Vitcos is "one of the finest stretches of Inca Trail in all of Peru" (179)
*If you want to hike to Huayna Picchu (tough hike, could take it or leave it) - only first 400 of 3000 visitors are allowed to climb to the top
And a local guide referring to steps on last day of Inca Trail - "We call this the gringo killer."
An accurate summary: "Intrigued by tales that Aurita had told me of even greater wonders along the Inca Trail, my friend and I tried to enter Peru via he Lake Titicaca ferry but were rebuffed by a menacing teenage soldier carrying an AK-47 and wearing a Barbie backpack. I looked across the water toward Peru and vowed to return one day. Then an old man with a cane picked my pocket."
Kinda how travel really is, though.
Even though I wasn't crazy about the construction, I would still recommend to people who hope to hike the Inca Trail. He does have some good tips buried in there.
*In addition to Macchu Picchu, visit: Sacsahuaman, Llactapata
*Walk rail line to Aguas Calientes instead of riding train - goes through Mandor Pampa
*Take "back door" route to Machu Picchu - train shuttle that runs once a day from hydroelectric plant on the Urubamba river. Take bus to Santa Maria, transfer to smaller bus at Santa Teresa, flag down combi bus to train station and Hidroelectrica and walk along the tracks. Saves you $103 (163)
*enter via Sun Gate if you walk the trail
*Deserted stone path that runs from Choquequirao to Vitcos is "one of the finest stretches of Inca Trail in all of Peru" (179)
*If you want to hike to Huayna Picchu (tough hike, could take it or leave it) - only first 400 of 3000 visitors are allowed to climb to the top
And a local guide referring to steps on last day of Inca Trail - "We call this the gringo killer."
September 26, 2012
At the suggestion of a friend who said she "was LOLing" while reading this book and praised it as being written in the manner of Bill Bryon's A Walk in the Woods, I decided to be an armchair traveller to Machu Picchu. Adams does have the same self deprecating style as Bryson; he's an ah shucks writer about his own lack of skill, but let's face it - he made it to all the sites supposedly discovered by Hiram Bingham whose travels of 1911 he decided to follow. Along for the trek and leading the way is the requisite gruff but knowlegable guide as well as local porters who also serve as guides, interpretors and who can fend off any near disaster. He travelled in good company and the tales of the trek were by far my favorite part of the book.
I occasionally got bogged down in the details of Bingham's explorations and Adams' attempts to validate his conquests. It was also difficult to keep track of all the place names but overall I'm impressed by Adams' research not to mention his ability to hike at elevation.
Still not interested in making the journey myself.
I occasionally got bogged down in the details of Bingham's explorations and Adams' attempts to validate his conquests. It was also difficult to keep track of all the place names but overall I'm impressed by Adams' research not to mention his ability to hike at elevation.
Still not interested in making the journey myself.
August 20, 2012
This book sounded promising. However, I was unable to get into the author's writing style, particularly with him switching back and forth between Hiram Bingham III's journey to Machu Picchu and his own journey of mapping Bingham's steps. For his part of the journey, I don't think he did the place justice as he sort of skipped the finer details. Unlike Cheryl Strayed's "Wild," I didn't feel like I was actually trekking the Inca Trail with the author. It just wasn't a very engaging read. That being said, the book did provide some interesting information about the Inca ruins in Peru.
April 11, 2024
I found this book without really looking for it and it intrigued me enough to bring it home. I am glad I did. History, Adventure, Memoir, Travelogue- a bit of everything here and most enjoyable.
Mark Adams started out as an intern, moved on to a fact checking job and then a researcher and then became an Editor at National Geographic. He got the bug to explore through these jobs, thus becoming a travel writer and book author. Turn Right, being his first book and adventure outside the office life. My reason for telling you all this is that Mark appears to be just a normal guy, not a hard-core adventurer. Thus, his writing style is plain and simple and at times a but humorous as he relates his time in his search for answers on the reason the Incas built Machu Picchu. As a guide, on his adventure, he did team up with a hardcore adventurer (an Australian named John Leivers) and the two of them resemble the Mutt and Jeff (look it up if you don't know who they are) of the Inca Trail.
This was a fascinating story explaining a lot of things I knew nothing about. I stand before you admitting, I still had a hard time understanding some of the celestial reasoning behind/within Machu Picchu. However, it enlighten me on the subject of the Incas and their "way ahead of the game" engineering and understanding of the Sun. Also, the story is told in 3 timelines, that of the Incas, 20th century explorer Hiram Bingham and Adams own time spent in South America and Machu Picchu .
A great read I can recommend to almost anyone.
Mark Adams started out as an intern, moved on to a fact checking job and then a researcher and then became an Editor at National Geographic. He got the bug to explore through these jobs, thus becoming a travel writer and book author. Turn Right, being his first book and adventure outside the office life. My reason for telling you all this is that Mark appears to be just a normal guy, not a hard-core adventurer. Thus, his writing style is plain and simple and at times a but humorous as he relates his time in his search for answers on the reason the Incas built Machu Picchu. As a guide, on his adventure, he did team up with a hardcore adventurer (an Australian named John Leivers) and the two of them resemble the Mutt and Jeff (look it up if you don't know who they are) of the Inca Trail.
This was a fascinating story explaining a lot of things I knew nothing about. I stand before you admitting, I still had a hard time understanding some of the celestial reasoning behind/within Machu Picchu. However, it enlighten me on the subject of the Incas and their "way ahead of the game" engineering and understanding of the Sun. Also, the story is told in 3 timelines, that of the Incas, 20th century explorer Hiram Bingham and Adams own time spent in South America and Machu Picchu .
A great read I can recommend to almost anyone.
October 18, 2015
I heard about Machu Picchu and saw its picture for the first time only after it was declared as one of the new seven wonders of the world. I then read "The Motorcycle Diaries" by Che Guevara and that was when I first learnt something about this marvelous place. I also got to read about the Inca empire and its decline thanks to that wonderful book. After reading that book, I got so intrigued about Inca empire and Machu Picchu that I had to watch couple of documentaries and read some articles online to quench the curiosity. That was when I came across this book on Amazon in the bestsellers list. I knew I had to read this book but I took few years to actually get to it. I am so glad I did read this book. It is a wonderful book which gives you a virtual tour of all the popular Inca sites along with history about these places.
Hiram Bingham III from Yale discovered Machu Picchu in 1911. Mark Adams tries to retrace the path that Bingham took when he made expeditions in search of the lost city of Incas. The author is an "unadventurous adventure writer" who has never even slept in a tent before. But he still hikes Peru's mountains and rain forests as he tries to retrace the Inca trails that Bingham took, with the help of an Australian guide, John. The book is a mix of adventure, travel and history which made it an interesting read.
The author gives us a history of the Inca empire, their last rebel king Manco Inca and fall of Inca empire after Spaniards came. I found this to be the most interesting part of the book. How an army of 168 spaniards was able to defeat a king who had forty thousand Inca soldiers shocked me! I am now in search of a documentary video that can explain this Inca history in detail.
Mark tries to address the question - what exactly was Machu Picchu? Was it a city or a pilgrimage or the lost city of Incas? He has collected all the theories that various people have put forth about this place. The author talks about the multiple expeditions that Bingham undertook to search for the lost city of Incas to which the Inca emperor fled when the spaniards attacked and the controversies that resulted from the artifacts that were carried back to US from Peru by Bingham. He also mentions some other people who were involved in the discovery of Machu Picchu and some of the other Inca sites.
The author makes two different trips to Machu Picchu - first time, following the path that Bingham took during his first expedition and the second time, by hiking the Inca trail for five days. In his second hike, he also witnesses the winter solstice at the sun temple in Machu Picchu. I so badly want to visit this place after reading the book and learning more about Inca empire and their sites in Peru.
Other than Machu Picchu, Mark talks about these other interesting Inca sites - Choquequirao, Vitcos, Espiritu Pampa, Llactapata, Aguas Celientes, Koricancha sun temple, Vilcabamba, Yanama, Quillabamba, Patallacta, Phuyupatamarca etc. It was interesting to know that Incas worshipped Apu (mountains), Panchamama (Mother Earth), Sun and their ancestors. I did learn quite a bit about Peruvians too.
I loved the writing style and the way the book has been written, even more than the content itself. The author is modest about his capabilities and is not arrogant or egoistic like many other travel writers out there e.g Bill Bryson - my biggest complaint about Bill Bryson's books is that he is condescending towards the people with whom he travels or the people whom he meets while traveling. Also the author has done an extensive research on the subject, has provided plenty of photos to give us an idea about the places and people that he mentions in the book. I also loved the fact that the author was funny without being mean.
I want to read Bingham's book - "Lost city of the Incas" someday. One other interesting fact I learned from the book was that the character of "Indiana Jones" was inspired from Bingham who was a professor and an explorer.
Hands down this is one of the best books on travel and adventure I have ever read.
I loved this quote from the book -
"Some humans are born great and others achieve greatness, most of us are perfectly content to have slightly-above-averageness thrust upon us".
I hated history in school but now I love it. I guess the fact that I don't have to memorize dates and years is the main reason. Do read this book if you love history and want to learn about Incan culture and history.
Hiram Bingham III from Yale discovered Machu Picchu in 1911. Mark Adams tries to retrace the path that Bingham took when he made expeditions in search of the lost city of Incas. The author is an "unadventurous adventure writer" who has never even slept in a tent before. But he still hikes Peru's mountains and rain forests as he tries to retrace the Inca trails that Bingham took, with the help of an Australian guide, John. The book is a mix of adventure, travel and history which made it an interesting read.
The author gives us a history of the Inca empire, their last rebel king Manco Inca and fall of Inca empire after Spaniards came. I found this to be the most interesting part of the book. How an army of 168 spaniards was able to defeat a king who had forty thousand Inca soldiers shocked me! I am now in search of a documentary video that can explain this Inca history in detail.
Mark tries to address the question - what exactly was Machu Picchu? Was it a city or a pilgrimage or the lost city of Incas? He has collected all the theories that various people have put forth about this place. The author talks about the multiple expeditions that Bingham undertook to search for the lost city of Incas to which the Inca emperor fled when the spaniards attacked and the controversies that resulted from the artifacts that were carried back to US from Peru by Bingham. He also mentions some other people who were involved in the discovery of Machu Picchu and some of the other Inca sites.
The author makes two different trips to Machu Picchu - first time, following the path that Bingham took during his first expedition and the second time, by hiking the Inca trail for five days. In his second hike, he also witnesses the winter solstice at the sun temple in Machu Picchu. I so badly want to visit this place after reading the book and learning more about Inca empire and their sites in Peru.
Other than Machu Picchu, Mark talks about these other interesting Inca sites - Choquequirao, Vitcos, Espiritu Pampa, Llactapata, Aguas Celientes, Koricancha sun temple, Vilcabamba, Yanama, Quillabamba, Patallacta, Phuyupatamarca etc. It was interesting to know that Incas worshipped Apu (mountains), Panchamama (Mother Earth), Sun and their ancestors. I did learn quite a bit about Peruvians too.
I loved the writing style and the way the book has been written, even more than the content itself. The author is modest about his capabilities and is not arrogant or egoistic like many other travel writers out there e.g Bill Bryson - my biggest complaint about Bill Bryson's books is that he is condescending towards the people with whom he travels or the people whom he meets while traveling. Also the author has done an extensive research on the subject, has provided plenty of photos to give us an idea about the places and people that he mentions in the book. I also loved the fact that the author was funny without being mean.
I want to read Bingham's book - "Lost city of the Incas" someday. One other interesting fact I learned from the book was that the character of "Indiana Jones" was inspired from Bingham who was a professor and an explorer.
Hands down this is one of the best books on travel and adventure I have ever read.
I loved this quote from the book -
"Some humans are born great and others achieve greatness, most of us are perfectly content to have slightly-above-averageness thrust upon us".
I hated history in school but now I love it. I guess the fact that I don't have to memorize dates and years is the main reason. Do read this book if you love history and want to learn about Incan culture and history.
March 21, 2013
Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time by Mark Adams is an adventure travelogue, a history of Peru, Machu Picchu, & various expeditions, and an investigation of allegations against explorer Hiram Bingham III.
As an adventure travelogue, Turn Left is highly successful due to Adams' insightful, clever writing, based on meticulous research, and his subtle, self deprecating humor. The short chapters keep the tale moving along, as do the honest portraits of the people he meets, along with guide John Leivers, explorer Juvenal, and the muleteers who accompany Adams. I frequently burst into laughter while reading this. I found the points about Machu Picchu as the central one of many interrelated sites insightful.
Adams weaves the history of the Incas, the Spanish Conquest, more recent Peruvian history, and the travels of Bingham and other explorers into a very readable account. The gore in the Inca and Spanish sections may both repel and fascinate. The difficulty of place names and given names is somewhat alleviated by the six page glossary which I referred to often. I would suggest reading this glossary first before reading the book to begin to get names and places into your head.
Four pages of maps at the front, a chronology at the back, and the index will help readers. 16 pages of photos were useful, though I wish there had been more. A note on sources and a selected bibliography give those interested in further reading many options.
Adams gives a balanced account of Bingham's explorations, actions and writings. Bingham gave himself too much credit in some writings, was guilty of taking artifacts, tried to do to much sometimes, and made incorrect suppositions at times. Bingham did, however, succeed in publicizing Machu Picchu, which ultimately helped keep it from being destroyed.
I strongly recommend Turn Left to those who love history, particularly that of South America and those who enjoy travel adventure, especially if they enjoy Bill Bryson. 4.5 stars. For geography, humor, Machu Picchu and fans of Mark Adams.
As an adventure travelogue, Turn Left is highly successful due to Adams' insightful, clever writing, based on meticulous research, and his subtle, self deprecating humor. The short chapters keep the tale moving along, as do the honest portraits of the people he meets, along with guide John Leivers, explorer Juvenal, and the muleteers who accompany Adams. I frequently burst into laughter while reading this. I found the points about Machu Picchu as the central one of many interrelated sites insightful.
Adams weaves the history of the Incas, the Spanish Conquest, more recent Peruvian history, and the travels of Bingham and other explorers into a very readable account. The gore in the Inca and Spanish sections may both repel and fascinate. The difficulty of place names and given names is somewhat alleviated by the six page glossary which I referred to often. I would suggest reading this glossary first before reading the book to begin to get names and places into your head.
Four pages of maps at the front, a chronology at the back, and the index will help readers. 16 pages of photos were useful, though I wish there had been more. A note on sources and a selected bibliography give those interested in further reading many options.
Adams gives a balanced account of Bingham's explorations, actions and writings. Bingham gave himself too much credit in some writings, was guilty of taking artifacts, tried to do to much sometimes, and made incorrect suppositions at times. Bingham did, however, succeed in publicizing Machu Picchu, which ultimately helped keep it from being destroyed.
I strongly recommend Turn Left to those who love history, particularly that of South America and those who enjoy travel adventure, especially if they enjoy Bill Bryson. 4.5 stars. For geography, humor, Machu Picchu and fans of Mark Adams.
October 16, 2017
I read this in preparation for my trip to Machu Picchu next week and I don't know that I would recommend getting it unless you have imminent plans to go there.
Mark Adams is quite funny and I appreciate that it sounds like we have a similar fitness level (mostly sedentary). But jokes aside, I found the narrative to be a bit rambly, jumping around from the locals' personal lives, to facts about Peru, to the history of Hiram Bingham III "discovering" the famous ruins.
I love that I have a better understanding of the history around the site now, and I'm glad that I got a couple travel tips out of it (wear layers, bring long pants/bug spray, don't drink the water), but I didn't find this to be an exciting book overall. I think it would have been better as a feature article, or at the very least should have been edited down because it felt like there was so much filler that didn't actually tell me anything.
Curious about the Inca trail? Want to know what was up with Hiram Bingham? Like to read about places you're planning on seeing? If yes, pick this up. Otherwise, save it for another time.
Mark Adams is quite funny and I appreciate that it sounds like we have a similar fitness level (mostly sedentary). But jokes aside, I found the narrative to be a bit rambly, jumping around from the locals' personal lives, to facts about Peru, to the history of Hiram Bingham III "discovering" the famous ruins.
I love that I have a better understanding of the history around the site now, and I'm glad that I got a couple travel tips out of it (wear layers, bring long pants/bug spray, don't drink the water), but I didn't find this to be an exciting book overall. I think it would have been better as a feature article, or at the very least should have been edited down because it felt like there was so much filler that didn't actually tell me anything.
Curious about the Inca trail? Want to know what was up with Hiram Bingham? Like to read about places you're planning on seeing? If yes, pick this up. Otherwise, save it for another time.
March 6, 2013
I thoroughly enjoyed Mark Adams' book. Part witty travelogue, part fascinating history, this book was the perfect way to prepare for my upcoming trip to Machu Picchu. I feel as though a good friend, with a journalist's skill, has given me every kind of background necessary to fully appreciate the journey.
I gave it four stars instead of five, because there were some sections where the book did seem to drag. When the travelers were going through several different geo-climate zones in one day, it was hard to picture their full journey. A few maps would have given me a better picture of their trek, up and down mountains, through jungles, along rivers, and so forth. If I were not so psyched about my own upcoming trip, I might have lost interest in the book half way through when the journey became confusing and circuitous, so a map would have clarified the route and kept my attention.
All in all, a great book!
I gave it four stars instead of five, because there were some sections where the book did seem to drag. When the travelers were going through several different geo-climate zones in one day, it was hard to picture their full journey. A few maps would have given me a better picture of their trek, up and down mountains, through jungles, along rivers, and so forth. If I were not so psyched about my own upcoming trip, I might have lost interest in the book half way through when the journey became confusing and circuitous, so a map would have clarified the route and kept my attention.
All in all, a great book!
November 20, 2014
This is a book that couch- and world-travelers alike will enjoy. Adams does a fantastic job weaving history with his personal experiences in Peru. When wanderlust strikes, even the most unprepared are willing to start a new adventure – often with hilarious results. I particularly enjoyed reading this novel in advance of my own trip to Machu Picchu. There were many things on my trip I remembered from the book and it was neat to see contrast of the old/new. I had learned a little about Machu Picchu in school, this book does a good job explaining why many assumptions are wrong. Most of all, this book will give you a sense of wonder and awe at the ancient architects who designed the ancient city and the surrounding area.
Who should read it? Lovers of couch-traveling or anyone planning to go to Machu Picchu one day!
See all my reviews and more at www.ReadingToDistraction.com or @Read2Distract
Who should read it? Lovers of couch-traveling or anyone planning to go to Machu Picchu one day!
See all my reviews and more at www.ReadingToDistraction.com or @Read2Distract
Displaying 1 - 30 of 1,980 reviews