Originally published in 1984 and then added to before being released as a second edition in 2004, On Food and Cooking sets out to explain the how and why of food. Why starches are good thickening agents, why beer in a green or clear glass bottle begins to smell almost skunk-like if left out in the sun, how different types of meats react to different temperatures, acids and alkalis. How different grades of soy sauce are made, what blood clots in an egg mean. And so on.
Across fifteen mammoth chapters, McGee examines every major category of ingredient, from various angles. Beginning with the two foods that nature designed specifically to provide nutrition (milk, followed by eggs), he discusses the chemical structure of each ingredient, the history of its usage, how it’s used in some major cuisines across the world (in particular, when a culture uses an ingredient in an unusual way), and—how it interacts with other ingredients and with elements such as air, water, and heat. McGee provides interesting trivia here and there, such as ancient recipes, quotations from old texts, and so on. He also looks at the nutritive aspect of various ingredients, and how this is affected by the treatment of the ingredient. Processing (both in bygone days, as well as modern industrial techniques) is discussed as well.
He does this not just for milk, eggs, meat and poultry, fish and seafood, grains and seeds, vegetables and fruits, herbs and spices, breads and doughs, sauces, and wines, beers and spirits, but also for what is processed from them. For instance, there are subchapters on everything from chocolate (a very major subchapter!) to maple syrup. There are detailed diagrams to explain scientific (especially chemical and occasionally botanical) concepts, and charts aplenty with nutritive values and more.
This is not the sort of book you’d probably sit down and read cover to cover at one go (even I, who do tend to read books from cover to cover, ended up taking breaks after every five chapters or so). It’s a lot of information, and I know for a fact that much of it (especially some of the more involved chemistry) probably didn’t completely sink in. But it certainly made me look at even everyday food with far more respect than before, and I learnt the science behind some common cooking practices. And I got some tips on cooking more efficiently, or choosing ingredients more wisely.
A fascinating book.
And yes, did you know this?
… each of the four major legumes known to Rome lent its name to a prominent Roman family: Fabius comes from the fava bean, Lentulus from the lentil, Piso from the pea, and Cicero—most distinguished of them all—from the chickpea.
Plus loads more of such delightful trivia.